The Great Walks...my early years 1990-2016

 

Historic tramps from pre 2012...the Great Walks

I am writing this post in 2021 at the end of my three decade journey to walk all of the Great Walk tracks we have in New Zealand. I have been steadily working through the South Island Great Walk tramps since 2012 and am off to tramp the last (Kepler Track) in late March 2021.

The Paparoa Track was my penultimate Great Walk in February 2021.....

I actually tramped/rafted four of the Great Walks prior to 2012 which was when I started back into tramping so I thought it might be useful to write a post about those historic trips.

North Island Great Walk Tracks...

I was in the New Zealand Army from 1988 to 1992 and spent nearly two years of that time at the School of Signals either long term or for short 2-3 month courses. As anyone who has ever been to Waiouru will attest there is bugger all to do there. 

Waiouru is a remote Central North Island settlement...

We had to make our own fun which usually meant PT or drinking but we did do a bit of tramping from time to time. 

 

The main drag through Waiouru itself.....yep!!!

This is when I walked or rafted all three of the existing Great Walks in the North Island.

BTW: the School of Signals moved to Linton Military Camp just outside Palmerston North so todays Sig's at least have a moderate sized city to call home.

The Tongariro Northern Circuit: 1988(?)

I walked the Tongariro Northern Circuit in the late 1980's while stationed at Waiouru Training Camp. A group of us walked the track as part of a supposed communications exercise we were running but really one of the Sergeants was a hunter/tramper and he wanted to have a go at the track!!!

On the Tongariro Northern Circuit, Central North Island

We got to do a lot of good stuff in the Army because an Officer or Sergeant had a hankering for some outdoor adventuring...like the time we walked overland from St Arnaud to Hanmer or the time we went fishing for a couple of days in the Marlborough Sounds, but those are other stories...

On the Tongariro Northern Circuit, Central North Island

The Circuit back then was very, very quiet...it was early autumn and the weather was getting colder but mostly the track was hardly known outside Kiwi tramping circles. I'm not joking we saw less than 10 people the whole time and that included the day we walked over what is now the Tongariro Crossing. We saw five (...yes 5...) people the day we walked the Crossing....in 2019 you might be sharing the track with up to a 1000 or more on any given day. 

Tama Lake, On the Tongariro Northern Circuit, Central North Island

The huts were old but serviceable, the tracks 'rough as' in places but the scenery was the same as you see today. I remember being thirsty most of the time...it is hot on the Circuit when the sun is out and good water sources are scarce...only at the huts. 

Lunar landscape on the Tongariro Northern Circuit, Central North Island

I took my camera with me on this trip, I had black and white film in my camera so that is why the pictures are black and white. I didn't take many photos, maybe the film was almost finished...I cant remember all these years later. I think black and white is the right medium for this track...it brings out the beautiful starkness of that volcanic terrain. 

On the Tongariro Northern Circuit, Central North Island

All of this track is beautiful in its own kind of way but my favorite section was on the eastern side of the mountains with that view out over the Desert Road. You had a bit of grass and some trees to break up the volcanic rock.

I really like the weird and wonderful forms a volcanic field holds...sharp edges and weird shapes. You can see why they practice Mars landings in volcanic areas. 

On the Tongariro Northern Circuit, Central North Island

It is a magnificent and unique track but I don't know if I would call it a Great Walk. It has a bit too much rock, sand and dust for my liking, I prefer thick forest really. That said I recommend it readily when people ask me about good tramping tracks in the North Island.

 I'd like to walk the Tongariro Crossing again but I think I would hate the damn crowds it now attracts. Maybe when I get to finishing the Te Araroa Trail..it goes right over the middle section of this track.

8/10 on the Jon tramp-o-meter.

Lake Waikaremoana Track (1989...?)

This was the first 'civilian' tramp I went on....it was while I was in the military but was not an Army organised trip. I was in Waiouru for three months doing some course or another.  A group of us decided to go tramp around Lake Waikaremoana one long weekend because one of the guys was from up that way and told us how cool it was. 

Korokoro Falls, Lake Waikaremoana Track: Image from New Zealand.com website

We walked the track anti clock wise so the Panekire Bluffs were at the end of the trip. Memories of the time are of the feeling of dark permanence in Te Urewera....that forest is ancient and dense, I wouldn't be surprised to see a Moa walk out of the bush and cackle "....how are yer maaateeee...!!!".

You can stand on the high bluffs around the lake and see nothing but bush and forest out to the horizon. I imagine that is what all of New Zealand looked like before humans arrived. 

Panekire Bluffs: Image from DOC website

The quality of the track was excellent and while some of the huts were older they were obviously well loved. It was a magnificent experience and I'm just sorry more people don't have the time to go there. Getting to the lake is the problem it is remote and the approach roads are gravel so long, hot and dusty.

While access is a curse it is is also a salvation...you have to REALLY WANT TO VISIT this locale so your normal tourism hordes are absent even now.

The modern Waiopaoa Hut: Image from Maipo website

I have heard that the track/huts have deteriorated since it was handed back to the local Iwi...I cannot comment on this but if true it is a real shame. This would be the perfect place for a genuine Maori take on the outdoors and show the deep relationship between the people and the land in Aotearoa.  

Typical North Island forest along the Lake Waikaremoana Track:Image from Shoesyourpath website

This is by far one of the finest tramping trips I have ever been on...in my top five of all time.

It is absolutely a 'Great Walk'...go walk it folks!!!

+10/10 on the Jon Tramp-o-meter.

Wanganui River Journey (1989)

Another hair brained scheme....same Army course (we also went and tramped in the Kaimanawa's around this time...). We had a free weekend so we borrowed some gear from the Outdoor Pursuits Centre at Waiouru and went and rafted down the Wanganui River. We went into the river up near National Park and came out just south of Jerusalem a couple of days later.

Early section of the Wanganui River: Image from Travel Alphas web site

The Wanganui River is sacred to the local Iwi, there are many Pa sites along the river as this was a major locus of Maori settlement right through history. It also featured heavily in the New Zealand Wars as it has always been a transportation link to the remoter parts of the Central North Island. 

Drawing of a typical fortified Maori village or Pa

Today most people would kayak or canoe the Wanganui as those craft are more suitable but back in those days most journeys were done by raft. This wasn't a Great Journey as they now style it, just a trip adventurous outdoor nutter's had a bash at.

Canadian style canoe on the Wanganui river

The only people we saw were a group of hunters at John Coull Hut and a few jet boats tooling up and down the river. Apart from them we had the river to ourselves...

The modern iteration of John Coull Hut: Image from DOC website

It was very peaceful drifting down the river, exploring the caves, side streams and points of interest and camping at the end of each day.  I remember us talking about going to the Bridge to Nowhere but not having the time to actually do so. I also remember the dozens of cans of beers ( I had two dozen just for myself...) we each took with us as vital supplies, empties rolling around in the bottom of the raft. 

The famous Bridge to Nowhere, Wanaganui River, Central North Island

When it is dry the Wanganui River is gentle and deep with the occasional grade 1-2 rapid, but if it rains in the headwaters it can become an angry raging beast. We had three days of beautiful sunny weather so we saw the nice face. You don't want to be down there when the bad face comes out.

Flood in the Upper Wanganui River

It is wild, remote wilderness along most of the river...dense bush, high bluffs and deep dank side streams cutting down through the mudstone. What it reminded me of was the movie Deliverance...at any moment I expected a couple of dungaree clad good ole boys to come on down out t'holla and say "....yer gotta purty mouth...."

The verdant Wanganui River Valley: Image from Visit Ruapehu website

I know this has become a bit of a tourist trap with the Te Araroa walkers and massed organised trips down the river but I think every Kiwi should add it to their agenda. If I was to do the journey again I would walk up to the Bridge to Nowhere and stop at Jerusalem and the Maori Village (Tieke Kainga) as they are an integral part of the story of this river.

Easy graded rapids on the Wanganui river: Image from Travel Alphas web site

This is the only Great Walk on a river so straight away it is unique, the area is deeply steeped in history and has a wild remote feeling you do not find in many places anymore. You would not look out of place dressed in flax and poling a waka down this river it has that ancient kind of feeling. It is definitely worth a visit...add it to the bucket list.

BTW: the name of the river is spelt both Wanganui and more correctly Whanganui...the local Iwi use both names for their Awa.

8/10 on the Jon Tramp-o-meter (only because I do not like the water that much)...

South Island Great Walk Tramps...

My permanent posting while in the Army was in Christchurch first at Addington Barracks (...great place...) and later at Burnham Army Camp. We got to walk the Heaphy Track after one of the exercises we held near Karamea...

Heaphy Track: 1990's & 2021

 I was stationed at Addington Barracks, Christchurch from 1988-1990...the unit I belonged to was 3 Signals Squadron. We used to frequently ticky-tour around the country doing military exercises usually on the West Coast, near the Southern Alps or around Tekapo. The big multi battalion exercise we did in 1990 was up near Karamea close to the West Coast end of the Heaphy Track.

Crossing Gouland Downs on the Hepahy Track

NB: just a note about the photo below...this swingbridge is no more...it was replaced with a foot bridge in the mid 2010's due to the increase in MTB riders using the track. Swingbridge are notoriously difficult to cross with a bike. All the bridges on the Heaphy Track have now been updated to accommodate bikes which is good for both riders and trampers.

Gouland Downs swing bridge:  Image from Heaphy Track.com website

Towards the end of the exercise we were all sitting around waiting to go back to Christchurch when a message went around asking if anyone wanted to walk the Heaphy Track. Obviously we all said yes so the next day several groups of us were flown by helicopter to points along the track by the New Zealand Airforce.

Saxon Hut was only six years old back in 1990

My group consisting of myself and the five other Signalers and about five infantry guys (hard to recall but you could get a 10 man squad on an Iroquois helicopter...) got dropped at the old Perry Saddle Hut. We walked back to Kohaihai from there...

Bridge over the Kohaihai River at the tracks end

I loved it.....what I remember is the varied terrain: thick native bush, the expansive tussock covered Gouland Downs, steep descents into verdant river valleys and that awesome walk through the Nikau Palm groves from the Heaphy River to Kohaihai.

Nikau forest near Heaphy Hut

We mostly had the huts to ourselves with a few Kiwi trampers chucked into the mix....no European tourist crowds in those days. We were eating Army ration packs and someone managed to slip a bottle of Rum into their pack. We had one day of torrential rain but the other three days were beautiful as only the north west of the South Island can be.

I thoroughly enjoyed the experience. 

View down to the Heaphy River from the track

Later in the early 1990's my girlfriend and I walked into Perry Saddle Hut from the road end near Brown Hut. We stayed for the one night and then walked back out again as she was not too keen on this tramping lark and did not want to walk the whole track.

Start of the Heaphy Track at Brown River carpark

Is the Heaphy a "Great Walk"....by damn...yes it is...my favorite section is between Lewis Hut and Heaphy Hut, as you wind down to the river and coast. My favorite hut was the old Heaphy Hut because we had such a good night there. We made a massive bonfire on the beach and then went back to the hut and played cards and drank rum laced tea and coffee for about four hours.

Looking up the Heaphy River Valley from the beach

Everyone should walk this track, I know it has transport difficulties (300+ km's separate the two ends...) but the problems are worth over coming for the fun you will have on the track.

Heaphy Track: the last day is along the coast

I am absolutely going to walk this track again someday..... soon I hope!

NB: I walked the Heaphy Track again in 2021 and it was just as good an experience as the first time despite several days of rain. This is an awesome track!!!

+10/10 on the Jon tramp-o-meter. 

 For trip reports on the other Great Walks like the Abel Tasman Coastal Track, Milford, Routeburn, Kepler, Paparoa and Rakuira have a search of the blog from 2016 onwards...