Completing my Great Walk saga.....
I recently completed my tenth and final Great Walk...it was the
Kepler Track down in Fiordland National Park. I have been steadily working my way through the South Island tracks for the last 10 years while the North Island Tracks and the Heaphy were completed in the late 1980's and early 1990's. I am super pleased and happy to have finally finished the set and just await any new additions to the Great Walk roster.
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| View of Lake Te Anau from the veranda at Luxmore Hut |
I started this trip from Te Anau...I had a couple of days there before and after the Kepler Track and took the opportunity to visit Milford Sound and to take a cruise on the Sound. As usual I stayed at the Lake View Holiday Park as this location has all the amenities you might need and it is always warm, clean and friendly.
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| My start point was Lakeview Holiday Park, Te Anau... |
Day one of the Kepler Track starts with the easy walk along the shore of Lake Te Anau to the Brod Bay Campsite through beautiful lowland forest. Then the real work starts with the 4-5 hour climb up a semi steep track to Luxmore Hut high above Lake Te Anau. On the way you pass the Limestone Bluffs and emerge above the bush-line to expansive views of the whole Te Anau basin. If you have the energy you can make the pilgrimage to the Luxmore Cavern with its series of tunnels and underground rock formations.
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| In the forest enroute to Brod Bay, Lake Te Anau |
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| The limestone bluffs between Brod Bay and Luxmore Hut |
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| Luxmore Hut, Kepler Track, Fiordland |
Day two is an extended tramp above the bush-line along a classic tops track..it is rocky, awe inspiring and hard tramping. Along the way you have fantastic views of the surrounding mountain ranges, Lake Te Anau and the Iris Burn Valley. After passing Hanging Valley Shelter you descend for several hours to the floor of the Iris Burn Valley to eventually arrive at Iris Burn Hut. From here you can make the short side trip to Iris Burn Falls and if you are lucky you can see Kiwi here at dusk and dawn.
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| On the northern flank of Mt Luxmore, Kepler Track |
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| Ridge top travel between Forest Burn and Hanging Valley Shelters... |
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| Iris Burn Falls, Kepler Track, Fiordland |
Day three is almost completely spent in thick Podocarp forest as you walk down the Iris Burn Valley to Lake Manapouri and Moturau Hut. The travel is much easier and gives some respite to those sore calves and thighs. Along the way you will have views of the lovely Iris Burn as well as the infamous Big Slip of 1984. Eventually you will arrive at Moturau where a well deserved swim in Lake Manapouri is on offer.
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| The upper reaches of the Iris Burn, Kepler Track |
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| On the Kepler Track half way to Matauru Hut.... |
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| Lake Manapouri from in front of Matauru Hut, Kepler Track |
The fourth and final day is again mostly in forest with several sections crossing wetlands and swamps atop boardwalks. If you have time you can do the short 20 minute side trip to Shallow Bay to bag the hut there. The track through the forest is mostly flat and quick progress can be made along it.
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| In the forest near Shallow Bay, Lake Manapouri, Fiordland |
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| The extensive wetlands between Shallow Bay and the Forest Burn River.... |
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| Balloon Loop on the Waiau River, Kepler Track |
An easy and steady walk of 1.5 hours will see you at Rainbow Reach where you can cross the massive Rainbow Reach Suspension Bridge to the end of the track. Alternately take the easy 2.5-3 hour walk along the Waiau River back to the Control Gates and your start point.
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| Crossing the bridge over the Waiau at Rainbow Reach |
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| Jon at the end of his tenth and last Great Walk |
I'm pleased I left the Kepler Track to last...it is a beautiful track and although challenging at times made a fine finale to my multi year Great Walk saga...
Day one: Control Gates to Luxmore Hut, 15 kms (6-7 hours)
I started the first day of my Kepler Track walk at the Lakeview Holiday Park...I was staying here both before and after the trip. You can walk to the Te Anau end of the Kepler Track along the Manapouri-Te Anau Highway...this takes about 50 odd minutes. The other option is to jump on the Tracknet shuttle to the track ends...this starts from the reception office at the Holiday Park.
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| The Kepler Track carpark at the Control Gates |
The shuttle deposits you at the start of the Kepler near the Control Gates at the south western end of Lake Te Anau. The Control Gates are used to vary the level of Lake Te Anau and Lake Manapouri via the Waiau River which links them both.
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| Shelter at the Control Gates end of Kepler Track |
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| Track to the Control Gates.....Kepler Track |
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| Heading down the nice track to the Control Gates, Lake Te Anau |
It is a 10 odd meter high concrete structure with a causeway across the top which will take you to the far side of the Waiau River. Both Lake Te Anau and Lake Manapouri contribute to the water used by the Manapouri hydro dam to produce electricity (most of which is used by the Tiwi Point aluminum smelter down in Bluff).
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| Lake Te Anau Control Gates... |
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| The Control Gates separate Lake Te Anau and the Waiau River |
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| Lake Te Anau from atop the Control Gates |
The western side of the Control Gates is also the official start of the Kepler Track...from here you can head either way. One direction is along the Waiau River to the track along Lake Manapouri and then up the Iris Burn River Valley. The second and far more common route is along the shore of Lake Te Anau to Brod Bay. This was the direction I was walking the Kepler Track...
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| Start of the Kepler Track and Fiordland National Park |
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| Kepler Track: start of the track to Brod Bay |
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| The forest to Brod Bay is lowland Podocarp... |
The first hour and a half is along the track to Brod Bay...it is easy tramping and a good warm up for the exertions to come later in the day. It is approximately 6 kilometers to Brod Bay Campsite and it will take you 1.2-2 hours to cover the distance. The track is inside the forest for the whole way and this is a very nice area of lowland Podocarp forest.
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| Looking fit and ready to go on the way to Brod Bay |
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| Very easy track along the shore of Lake Te Anau |
About thirty minutes from the start of the track you pass Dock Bay which is an access point for private boats with a beautiful sandy beach. It has a toilet but no dock so I think it probably once had a historic dock located there which is now gone.
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| Passing Dock Bay on the Kepler Track |
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| View over to Te Anau from Dock Bay.... |
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| ...there is a toilet at Dock Bay, Kepler Track |
After Dock Bay you just keep cruising along this very nice, flat and easy to follow path down to Brod Bay. There were a lot of birds in this section of the track...I could hear them but not see them so I think they probably try to stay away from all the people heading this way.
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| Open forest near Coal Creek...Kepler Track |
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| Coal Creek Bridge, Kepler Track |
It is just about completely flat except for a couple of places where the track heads a bit inland to cross over some headlands. You cross a couple of streams along here but if you require water but I would probably wait till you get to Brod Bay where there is a rainwater tank.
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| Kepler Track: climbing over a headland on the way to Brod Bay |
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| On top of one of the headlands you need to cross enroute to Brod Bay |
Surprisingly there are some monster trees along this section of the Kepler Track...mostly Beech but there are also Totora, Kahikatea, Miro, Rimu and Rata Trees. Some of them are enormous...I don't know why they were never harvested in times past...perhaps there were more easily accessible sources elsewhere.
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| Massive Kahikatea Tree near Brod Bay |
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| ...Lake Te Anau appears through the trees... |
You pass over two metal bridges along the way...when you cross over the second you are about 300 meters away from the Brod Bay Campsite...
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| A bridge about 300 meters from Brod Bay Campsite... |
I arrived at Brod Bay after an hour and twenty minutes of easy walking...there is a DOC backcountry campsite here with a camp shelter, toilets, water and firepits. There are some nice looking campsites scattered amongst the trees and along the back of the beach. You can stay here to shorten your first day but it is such easy walking along the track you might just as well walk all the way to Luxmore Hut in one day.
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| Brod Bay Campsite Shelter, Kepler Track |
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| Water tank and cooking benches at Brod Bay |
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| There is a nice beach at the Brod Bay Campsite |
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| Plenty of room for tents at Brod Bay, Kepler Track |
After Brod Bay the real work of the day starts...a 4-5 hour climb up the Kepler Track to Luxmore Hut. You start at around 150 meters asl at Brod Bay and top out near the hut at 1200 meters so you have a hell of a climb ahead of you.
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| Start of the track to Luxmore Hut from Brod Bay |
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| Start of the 3-4 hour climb to Luxmore Hut |
The track is not actually that steep as it is a Great Walk but it is bloody relentless. There are possibly three flat sections once you start to climb and they are right up near the bush-line at 1000 meters. It was quite a warm day at 28 degrees Celsius and there was no wind at all until you got up above 800 meters so it was hot sweaty work plodding up that track.
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| A whole colony of life on a fallen tree...Kepler Track |
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| The track to Luxmore Hut is a series of switchbacks... |
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| Kepler Track...benched for your pleasure.... |
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| Section of Goblin Forest halfway to the bush-line...Kepler Track |
The track is a long series of switchbacks crossing back and forth over a spur which leads up towards Mt Luxmore. It was fairly busy along the track with people coming back from day trips to Luxmore Hut, folk walking the Kepler Track in a clockwise direction and my hut companions for the night heading up the hill.
I was following an older American couple for a couple of hours they were doing a day walk and stopped just short of the famous limestone bluffs. Good work for people in their late 60's...
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| The American couple I followed up the Kepler Track |
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| Early afternoon sunlight on the way to Luxmore Hut |
It was nice in the forest as it was a sunny day and shafts of light were streaming onto the trees and lighting up the forest floor. I really liked this fern below with its long graceful stem......
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| I liked this fern growing alongside the Kepler Track |
The forest changes as you gain altitude from Podocarp to beech and then to sub alpine species like Halls Totora. The forest is thick and luxuriant with a full understory and I saw and heard a lot of birds including Fantails, Kaka, Tui, Bellbirds and Bush Robins.
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| Area of Totora Trees on the way to Luxmore Hut |
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| First view of Te Anau from the Kepler Track |
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| The gradient is relentless on day one of the Kepler Track... |
You have to stop multiple times on the way up to the bush-line as the track is so long and you are continuously climbing. At one of my stop points I was have a snack and a drink and having a look around me. Right next to me was this big boulder which was a sedimentary collections of mudstone and sea shells. This is at roughly 900 meters so tectonic forces must have shoved this old seabed up here over millions of years.
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| Shell filled sedimentary rock at 900 asl, Kepler Track |
At around the 800 meter mark you pass a series of high limestone bluffs with the track running right along their base. These bluffs are from 60-100 meters high and are mostly made of the base limestone much of this mountain range is made of. There are a series of stairs, steps and boardwalk along here...don't dally to admire the bluffs as it is also a rockfall zone.
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| Kepler Track: first view of the limestone bluffs... |
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| Boardwalk bridges at the Limestone Bluffs, Kepler Track |
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| Climbing past the end of the Limestone Bluffs, Kepler Track |
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| There are several staircases on this part of the Kepler Track |
At the far end of the bluffs you climb a series of stairs and find yourself in yet another type of forest...goblin forest with moss and lichen covering every tree. It is about a kilometer and a half from here to the edge of the bush and the start of the alpine meadows and tops travel you will be walking for the next couple of days.
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| Last forest section on day one of the Kepler Track |
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| Moss and lichen covered trees near the bush-line, Kepler Track |
I eventually made it to the bush-line after nearly six hours of walking from the Control Gates...those are some hard kilometers walking up from Brod Bay. One of the reasons I left the Kepler Track to last was because I knew it would be hard tramping and so it proved to be over the next couple of days.
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| Kepler Track: edge of the bush on day one... |
I finally broke out of the bush-line after around six hours of walking....it was fantastic to finally get to the edge of the bush as there was a nice cool breeze blowing across the tops.
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| View to Mt Titiroa, Lake Manapouri from the Kepler Track |
Everyone stopped for a break at the edge of the bush as it had been quite exhausting climbing up that damn track. Folk needed to recover and reorganize themselves before starting the 45 minute walk across the tops to Luxmore Hut your hut for the first day.
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| Heading to Pt. 1031 on the Kepler Track |
The track levels out a lot once you get onto the tops...there are a couple of small humps to climb over but it is so much easier than the relentless uphill you have thus experienced. I think if you can make it to the bush-line then you can finish this track as that is possibly the hardest part of the walk.
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| Kepler Track: Pt. 1402 and Mt Luxmore |
There are some stunning views of the surrounding area from up here...you can see down to Te Anau, and far out to the horizon along the other points of the compass. Far to the south you can see the Takatimu Mountains and out to the Tasman Sea. North is Lake Te Anau and the huge basin it sits in. To the east you can see the Eyre Range and the mountains around the Mavora Lakes. West is the direction you are walking with great views of the Murchison Range.
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| Lake Te Anau from near Pt. 1031, Kepler Track |
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| Te Anau Plain and the Eyre Range from Kepler Track |
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| Takatimu Range from near Pt. 1031, Kepler Track |
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| You can just see Lake Manapouri from this end of the Kepler Track |
You can see Mt Titiroa and Lake Manapouri in the distance once you break past the bush-line...Mt Titiroa looks like it has snow atop its crest but it is actually exposed limestone reflecting the sun. This whole area is old seabed pushed up to height by the collision of the Pacific and Australian Plates which starts just off the coast of Fiordland.
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| Trampers on the crest of Pt. 1031, Kepler Track |
There is a great view of Te Anau itself from the top of Pt. 1031 the first crest you top on the way to Luxmore Hut. It is surprising how big the town is...it stretches for several kilometers along the shore of the lake and for a distance inland from the shore. All of the the Te Anau basin is spread out before you from way up here...
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| Te Anau from near Pt. 1031, Kepler Track |
Once clear of the bush you are crossing high alpine meadows of tussock, small plants and grass....this is typical of the terrain you will be crossing for the next day as day two is almost entirely spent above the bush in tops travel.
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| Kepler Track: heading to Pt. 1016 |
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| A small tarn near Pt. 1016...Kepler Track |
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| Climbing up to Pt. 1016...Kepler Track |
You have awesome views of Lake Te Anau from high on these ridges including the South Fiord which is not really visible from down at lake level. The South Fiord of Lake Te Anau stretches for about 10 kilometers deep into the Murchison Mountains and is your companion for most of the second day of this track.
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| Start of the South Fiord of Lake Te Anau, Kepler Track |
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| View of the Murchison Mountains from the Kepler Track |
Eventually you top Pt. 1016 and once around the corner you can see Luxmore Hut off in the distance basking in the sun. It sure is a wonderful sight and by the time you get here you will be anxious to sample its delights after 6-7 hours of walking.
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| Luxmore Hut...end of day 1 on the Kepler Track |
A great days tramping but definitely type two fun....awful at the time but fun in retrospect....hey who likes climbing nearly 1000 meters up a hill regardless of how beautiful the track might be.
At Luxmore Hut:
Luxmore Hut is a monster of a hut....built in the early 2000's to replace a previous smaller hut it has plenty of space for the 55 people who can stay here each night. It is in an excellent location with full sun for almost all of the day and protected to a certain degree by the folds of land which surround it.
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| Side view of Luxmore Hut, Kepler Track |
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| On the veranda at Luxmore Hut, Kepler Track |
There are plenty of cookers in this hut but then you would expect that as it holds 5 people at one time. There is gas supplied and although the water is not filtered like it is on some other tracks it is still pristine so you can just drink it as it is.
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| Plenty of cookers and table space in Luxmore Hut |
There are awesome views out the windows here...I was looking out as I heated water for dinner as were many other people. Half the hut sat out on the veranda in the sun and ate dinner that day...there were sandflies but not too many.
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| There are some awesome views from the living space at Luxmore Hut |
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| Nice seating area around the firebox at Luxmore Hut |
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| Luxmore Hut has a internal boot room to stop Kea mischief... |
Luxmore was certainly a change from my last Great Walk the Paparoa Track. The huts on this track are all huge 50+ person buildings and at times it can seem like too many people. On the Paparoa Track the huts are limited to 20 people per night and it wasn't even full so there was plenty of spare space. I could see Iris Burn and Moturau getting the big rebuild in the near future as they are currently over 40 years old and just barely hold the number of people staying each night.
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| Looking down the South Fiord of Lake Te Anau from Luxmore Hut |
The bunkroom at Luxmore is one huge 55 person space...the amount of snores, sighs, groans, shuffling and farts was commiserate with that number of people in one place...I had a top bunk at Luxmore and Iris Burn and a bottom bunk at Moturau. It is not as easy as it once was for me to get my 50+ year old body onto a top bunk....time waits for no man so it seems!!!!
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| A single monster 55 space bunkroom at Luxmore Hut |
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| Jon's bed...upstairs at Luxmore Hut (not easy to get into...) |
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| Afternoon tea at Luxmore Hut...soup and crackers!!! |
The DOC hut builders chose an excellent spot for this hut...it sits in a lovely north facing gully with small spurs on both sides so it is warm, sunny and comparatively calm. The bush is about 50 meters away from the hut and there are lots of interesting alpine and sub alpine plants around the hut.
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| The Muchison Mountains from Luxmore Hut |
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| The bush is about 50 meters below Luxmore hut |
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| Track up to Luxmore Hut from the veranda |
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| Luxmore Hut sits at nearly 1100 meters... |
After a suitable rest period at Luxmore Hut I went for the short side trip to Luxmore Cavern about 400 odd meters away and on the far side of Pt. 1016. Luxmore Cavern is a cave system bored deep into the limestone of the mountain by the ever present water.
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| The track up to the Luxmore Cavern from near the hut.... |
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| On my way up to Luxmore Cavern from Luxmore Hut |
The cave system extends far down into the bowels of the earth and once past the first hundred odd meters requires a headtorch to see where you are going. What did Jon forget to take...his bloody headtorch!!! I went as far into the cavern as the light from outside allowed which was still some considerable distance but I could have gone for nearly another 100 meters if I was wiling to crawl through the dark.
Worth the effort to visit...
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| The staircase down into the Luxmore Cavern |
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| Luxmore Cavern reaches way into the hills near the hut... |
Dinner on the first night was freeze dried Beef Stroganoff which is one of my personal favorites in the Backcountry range. I paired this with a tomato soup, a pineapple isotonic drink and coffee. No wine this time as I figured it would be better to carry water on that long climb up to Luxmore Hut then wine. A nice red wine would have gone well with my meal though....
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| Dinner at Luxmore: Beef Stroganoff and multiple drinks.... |
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| Beautiful sunset from Luxmore Hut, Fiordland NP |
That was the end of day one....I slept like a log that night as all that climbing had knackered me. Everyone was feeling it...when I went to bed at 9.30 there was only one group of people up playing cards and they had helicoptered to the hut earlier that day. Everyone else was in bed or getting ready for bed.
Day two: Luxmore Hut to Iris Burn Hut, 14.6 km's (7 hours)
Day two was a long day of travel across the tops before a multi hour descent down to the hut at the floor of the Iris Burn River Valley. One of the complicating factors was a lack of drinking water between Luxmore Hut and Iris Burn...there are no water tanks at either Forest Burn or Hanging Valley Shelters. This meant I was carrying just over 3 liters of water when I left at the start of the day.
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| Dawn and the sun rises over the distant Eyre Mountains... |
It is 15 kilometers of hard tramping from Luxmore Hut to Iris burn Hut so I made sure that I was up, packed and on the trail as early as possible. I left the hut at 07.30 and was the fourth person out of the hut that day. I was hoping to get to Iris Burn by 2 pm to get a half decent bunk...I got there at 2.30 pm so I was not far off my time.
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| Start of the track to Iris Burn Hut...Kepler Track |
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| Kepler Track heading uphill towards Mt Luxmore |
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| Fog covers the South Fiord of Lake Te Anau |
The first three hours of the second day are just about all uphill...you are climbing up and around the northern side of Mt Luxmore and along a ridge before dropping down to Forest Burn Shelter. There was maybe 300 meters of flat ground over this distance so be prepared for hill climbs...
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| The Takatimu Range and Mt Titiroa from the Kepler Track |
It ended up being a stinking hot day with a high of just short of 27 degrees so I stopped after an hour and slathered myself with sun screen as I was starting to burn. If it is a sunny day lather yourself up before you leave the hut or you will end up looking cooked lobster like some of my fellow trampers.
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| Kepler Track: on the way to Mt Luxmore...day two |
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| Mt Luxmore (1472) from near Luxmore hut |
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| This whole section is prone to avalanches in winter...Kepler Track |
The track was excellent for the most part and the views are just staggering...day two is the reason this is a Great Walk. I think this might be the longest time I have spent traversing the tops since my times in the Army in the late 1980's. There are great views of the surrounding ranges, South Fiord of Lake Te Anau, Mt Luxmore, Lake Manapouri and the Iris Burn Valley.
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| The Kepler Track sidles the side of Mt Luxmore |
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| You can see most of the next hours Kepler Track route at places |
The terrain up near Mt Luxmore is other worldly with an intense mix of tussock, rock falls, scree slopes and exposed soil. It is almost foreboding and that was on a beautiful sunny day. It must be quite menacing when it is cold, wet, wind and dark as it would often be up here above the bush.
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| The track between Pt. 1402 and Mt Luxmore, Kepler Track |
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| Rough rock falls on the north of Mt Luxmore |
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| Last distant view of Luxmore Hut, Kepler Track |
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| The Murchison Range from near Mt Luxmore |
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| The Kepler Track follows the ridge in the middle... |
You are gradually making your way to the high point of the track which is the saddle between Mt Luxmore and Pt. 1439. The saddle sits at around 1400 meters and there is a great view from there of the Forest Burn catchment and the South Fiord of Lake Te Anau.
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| Approaching the side track to the summit of Mt Luxmore |
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| The highest point on the Kepler Track...between Mt Luxmore and Pt. 1439 |
You can see a long way from up here...I could just make out the Takatimu Range and the coast out near Colac Bay to the south west. Every other way you looked were serried ranks of mountains as far as you can see.
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| Serried mountain ranges to the horizon...Kepler Track |
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| Looking down on the Forest Burn headwaters, Kepler Track |
There is a track from the saddle to the top of Mt Luxmore which is 30 minutes return...it looked steep and rocky so I decided to forego the pleasure. You could also bash to the summit of Pt. 1439 if you like that kind of fun as there is a scree slope which reaches almost to the top..
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| Pt. 1439 from the highest point on the Kepler Track |
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| The Kepler Track follows this ridge... |
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| The South Fiord of Lake Te Anau, Kepler Track |
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| Cirque stretching from Pt. 1525-Pt.1250, Kepler Track |
From the saddle you sidle around Pt. 1439 and then descend down to the first shelter of the day over looking the Forest Burn headwaters. The shelter is for day use only and has a covered and enclosed space for use in inclement weather and a toilet. There is no water here so you must bring all that you need for the whole day with you when you leave Luxmore Hut.
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| First view of Forest Burn Shelter, Kepler Track |
I sat on the veranda outside the shelter and had some morning tea and water and used the conweniences there before packing my gear and heading off along the track. That toilet has a stunner of a view right down the Forest Burn Valley and I'm sure you would have seen Lake Manapouri if not for the fog coving the area...
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| Forest Burn Day Shelter, Kepler Track |
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| Toilet with a view...Forest Burn Shelter, Kepler Track |
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| The track continues along the ridges after Forest Burn Shelter... |
From Forest Burn Shelter you drop down a couple of hundred meters before climbing up and around the bulk of Pt.1528 which is the highest point along this part of the Kepler Track. Thankfully you don't have to climb to the top of this beast but instead are making for another saddle on the western side of the ridge.
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| Classic view to the head of South Fiord of Lake Te Anau, Kepler Track |
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| Sidling the northern side of Pt.1528, Kepler Track |
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| Kepler Track: section from Pt. 1401 to Pt. 1383 |
The next section of the track is a series of small climbs and descents as you traverse from the Mt Luxmore saddle past Pt. 1401, Pt. 1383 and Pt. 1356. This is the last part of the Kepler Track before you reach the second shelter for the day at Hanging Valley.
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| Great view of the Kepler Mountains from the Kepler Track |
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| The Kepler Track climbs up to Pt. 1401... |
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| ...and along to Pt. 1383 enroute to Hanging Valley Shelter |
You don't go over Pt. 1383 but along a sidle track on the left hand side of this peak. If you feel vigorous there is a short side track to the top of the point which would take about 10-15 minutes total to climb. The western side of Pt. 1383 is exposed rock..it looked almost lunar and looks to be a mixture of shale, sandstone, limestone and what looked like asbestos.....
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| Sidling along the western side of Pt. 1383...Kepler Track |
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| Last view of Lake Te Anau from near Pt. 1383, Kepler Track |
There is about a kilometer left to Hanging Valley Shelter once you walk past Pt. 1383...unfortunately it means walking up and over Pt 1356. It is not as bad as it looks after nearly five hours on the track, I actually found it took less than 20 minutes to cover the distance.
Soon you will be having a rest and eating some lunch....yay!!!
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| Hanging Valley Shelter is on the other side of Pt 1356, Kepler Track |
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| The last big climb of the day over Pt. 1356, Kepler Track |
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| First view of Hanging Valley Day Shelter, Kepler Track
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I stopped for twenty minutes at Hanging Valley Shelter and had some lunch....I was carrying crackers, biersticks and Baybel Cheese on this trip and they were good lunch vittles. I'm using some single serve packets of Ritz crackers I found at an Asian food store...some of them got broken but they actually held up remarkably well to the rigors of tramping.
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| Hanging Valley Shelter, Kepler Track |
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| Another throne room with a view...Kepler Track |
From Hanging Valery Shelter it is almost all downhill to Iris Burn Hut...first its a 45 minute walk down to the bush-line and then you normally have about a 1-1.5 hour walk through the forest to the hut. It is steep all the way as you drop from nearly 1400 meters to less than 400 meters over about 2.2 kilometers.
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| The spur from Hanging Valley Shelter to the bushline...Kepler Track |
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| Tarns near Pt. 1314, Kepler Track |
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| Mt Tinsley overlooks the Iris Burn River Valley |
The first part is down and along a spur from Hanging Valley Shelter to near Pt. 1167...this is easy walking with several flat sections. There is a long series of stairs from near Pt. 1221 with a significant drop off right next to the track so take care. From the bottom it is about 400 meters to the top of the switchbacks which drop you down to the bottom of the Iris Burn Valley.
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| On Pt. 1221 on the way to Iris Burn...Kepler Track |
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| Stairs leading down from Pt. 1221 on the Kepler Track |
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| You can just see the Iris Burn River from near Pt. 1221, Kepler Track |
There is a short walk to a lookout up on Pt. 1167 if you are interested. I stopped here for a 10 minute break before setting off once again on my way down the switchbacks. I was feeling tired by this point but then I had been walking for over five hours at this point.
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| View to the Kepler Mountains from near Pt.1167, Kepler Track |
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| Kepler Track: looking back up to Hanging Valley shelter... |
The bush-line started about 200 meters from the lookout junction and it was fantastic to be back under some shade once again......
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| Approaching the bush-line after five hours on the tops...Kepler Track |
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| Last 20 meters to the bush-line enroute to Iris Burn Hut |
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| The track from Pt. 1167 to Iris Burn...lots of switchbacks!!! |
Around about here is where I encountered a major problem...my left knee basically started hyper extending with each step I took. This meant that I had to slow right down to a crawl and in fact walk sideways in several steeper places. I had over stretched the tendons in the back of my knee so it had no strength to support me. I chewed a handful of Ibuprofen and got on with it...I mean what else could I do.
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| First water source since Luxmore Hut...below Pt. 1167, Kepler Track |
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| Goblin Forest as I drop down to Iris Burn Hut, Kepler Track |
From the spot where my knee gave out to Iris Burn Hut was approximately 1.5 kilometers but it took me nearly two hours to negotiate that distance. It was some damn hard walking as I could only go about 50-100 meters before I had to stop and give my leg a rest.
There is a good water resupply point at Hanging Valley Stream...
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| Bridge over Hanging Valley Stream, Kepler Track |
I was helped at one stage when one of my fellow trampers lent me a walking pole which made it possible to increase my pace a bit. I got there but by gawd it was not a pretty sight...as several people told me later in the afternoon.
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| On the last switchbacks down to Iris Burn...Kepler Track |
After nearly 2 hours of walking from the bush-line I finally reached sweet blessed flat ground. I was ok walking on flat ground but my knee was buggered for the last two days of the trip which meant I was limping along for a lot of the time.
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| Back on flat ground once again...near Iris Burn Hut |
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| You can just see Iris Burn Hut through the trees... |
I arrived at Iris Burn Hut just after 3 pm so it had taken me roughly 7 hours to cover the distance from Luxmore Hut. Given the steep terrain, rocky track conditions, heat and my bung knee I don't think that is all that bad. I certainly covered the distance faster than some others...the last group arrived at Iris Burn at 7.30 pm after leaving Luxmore Hut at 10 am so that was nearly a nine hour day...
At Iris Burn Hut:
Iris Burn Hut was built back in the 1980's and originally had less than 40 bunks. It had an addition added to it over the years as it receives a lot of use. It is currently rated as a 50 bunk hut BUT I noticed there were five additional mattresses in the up stairs bunkroom so actually it can accommodate 55 people.
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| Iris Burn Hut, Kepler Track |
The hut itself is quite nice although the living space is far too small to hold fifty people at one time. It has a main building with 30 bunks and a additional bunkroom with another 20 bunks. The living space and toilets (flushing) are in the main building.
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| The veranda at Iris Burn Hut, Kepler Track |
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| Iris Burn Hut is a 50 bunker....Kepler Track |
I was in the big main bunkroom on the second floor and once again had a bunk up in the nose bleeds...I was just able to fit into the space provided when on my side as the roof is quite low in this hut. It was much easier to climb into the bunk as I had my own ladder to get up and down.
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| One of the bunkrooms in Iris Burn Hut, Kepler Track |
The hut is set in a big clearing which also contains the campsite and a cooking shelter for those living under nylon. There are excellent views of the surrounding mountains and I heard that the river has several nice swimming holes although I was not keen to sample it myself. One of the couples caused a minor scandal by going skinny dipping which led to some interesting and spirited discussion later in the evening.
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| The open area around Iris Burn Hut, Kepler Track |
After time for a rest, a tea and some recovery time I limped up to the Iris Burns Falls to have a look...they are quite nice and the trip takes about 30 minutes return (maybe faster if you are not an invalid like I was). Some people were swimming in the pool at the base of the falls when I was leaving..they sounded like they were having a ball of a time. It looked super cold to me.....
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| Iris Burn Falls, Kepler Track, Fiordland |
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| Iris Burn Hut, Kepler Track |
Iris Burn was a nice hut with a really good feel to it even with a full house. It is super buggy though so cover yourself with some repellent if you are camping here or spending time outside.
So that was the end of the first two days of my Kepler Track trip...come back soon to see how I fared with my gammy knee on the last two days of this trip.
Access: From Te Anau the Kepler Track can be reached by boat or road. The road access is off the Manapouri-Te Anau Highway via Golf Course Road. The track starts on the northern side of the Control Gates and finishes at either Rainbow Reach or the Control Gates 4-5 days later.
Track Times: From the Control Gates: 1.5-2 hours to Brod Bay, Brod Bay to Luxmore Hut is 4-5 hours; Luxmore Hut to Iris Burn Hut is 6-7 hours (of hard tramping).
Hut Details: Brod Bay Camp Shelter: Camp cooking shelter, toilets, water, firepits with wood from nearby beach: Luxmore Hut: Great Walk, 55 bunks, wood burner, water tanks, wood shed, toilets: Forest Burn Shelter: day shelter only, toilet, no water: Hanging Valley Shelter, Day Shelter only, toilet, no water here: Iris Burn Hut: Great Walk, 50 bunks, wood burner, water tanks, wood shed, toilets
Miscellaneous: All Great Walk huts are on the DOC Hut booking system, must be booked for overnight visit. Hut Warden present over summer season. There are no permanent water sources between Luxmore Hut and Iris Burn Hut. Very exposed track with rockfall and avalanche risk.
