Another trip into the Abel Tasman...
It was my birthday on August the 11th so I decided to give myself the kind of birthday gift I really enjoy. I took myself off to the Abel Tasman National Park at the top of the South Island and went for a 3 day, 2 night tramping trip.
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| The tide is out at Marahau on the edge of Abel Tasman NP |
I didn't have enough time to walk the whole of the Abel Tasman Coastal Track...instead I caught the Aquataxi water taxi to Onetahuti Beach and walked from there back to Marahau on the edge of the National Park. This is my 6th or 7th trip into Abel Tasman NP...one of my favorite tramping locations in the whole country.
I ask you...whats not to like here...golden sandy beaches, excellent weather, easy to moderate track conditions...swimming in the summer!!!
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| Looking back to Onetahuti Beach from the Abel Tasman Coast Track |
My first day was a short hop from Onetahuti to Bark Bay Hut where I stayed for the night. Day two was from Bark Bay to Anchorage and day three was from Anchorage to Marahau. August-September is the perfect time to visit the park as visitor numbers are low, the weather is good and the forest is fresh and green after the rains of winter and spring.
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| Abel Tasman Coast Track: Bark Bay Hut at the end of day one... |
With Covid-19 gripping the world there was a real dearth of the usual international tourist numbers...most of the people I interacted with were from New Zealand. There were a few tourists but they tend to be those people who were in the country before the lock-down and are working here or simply cannot get home. Given recent events I expect this will be the new normal at least for the 2020/2021 season..
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| Day two and Jon sets off from Bark Bay, Abel Tasman Coast Track |
The weather was excellent on all three days...warm, sunny, light winds and mostly clear skies. I had all my warm gear but honestly it was not required as you really could not ask for better weather for an early Spring tramp.
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| Incoming tide at Torrent Bay...too deep to cross!!! |
I managed to do a couple of the side trips I missed on previous trips...Yellow Point and some of the lookout points. Normally when I am trying to get somewhere I just walk past these but I may never get up to the park again so I made an effort to do so this time around.
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| Jon on the Torrent Bay High Tide Track, Abel Tasman Coast Track |
Look at that awesome sandy beach...The Abel Tasman is all about the beaches really and while it was far too cold to swim at this time of the year I still did see a few hardy (read slightly off...) people enjoying the ocean. I walked in up to my knees and thought..NOPE...not gonna happen..but that is just me!!!
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| Beautiful Anchorage...love that sandy beach!!! |
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| Palatial Anchorage Hut, Abel Tasman Coast Track |
Your average day on the Abel Tasman is climbing over 1-3 headlands inter-spaced with flat travel along the back of the beaches. Most days you climb up and over ridges but this is easy tramping country...the highest point along the coastal track is 200 meters asl and that is the climb out of Anchorage on the last day.
Most of the time you will be sidling along excellent tracks with stunning views of the inland mountains and the ocean.
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| Bridge 1 of 50 on the last day of the Abel Tasman Coast Track |
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| Safety fences between Ankerston Beach and Coquille Bay, Abel Tasman Coast Track |
The start and end of the track for me was Marahau which is a trail town on the southern edge of the National Park. You can walk to the northern or southern end of the park depending on your personal requirements. I find the best option is to catch a water-taxi to the northern end of the track and walk back to Marahau.
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| Coquille Bay from the Abel Tasman Coast Track |
I just feel the lie of the land is better going north to south although most people go the other way. Also, if the weather deteriorates while you are on track you can end up stuck at Totaranui camp ground with no way back and no food/fuel/tent. Even if it is hosing with rain you can always walk but the water-taxis do not operate in high seas...which are not uncommon up here.
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| On the causeway to Marahau, Abel Tasman Coast Track |
There was a new Maori carving over the track entrance at Marahau installed since my last visit with Karen in 2019....
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| The finish of the Abel Tasman Coast Track at Marahau |
The Abel Tasman Coastal track is one of my favorite walks and should definitely be on every Kiwis to do list. So follow me and lets see what this track has to offer...
Day 1: Marahau-Onetahuti Beach-Bark Bay, 2.5 hours 7 km's
I was booked on the first water-taxi of the day at 09.30 am so I was at Marahau Aquataxi by 8.30 am to get my ticket and sort out my gear. Over the winter period there are only two sailings a day along the coast; one at 09.30 and one at 11.00 am. There is just not the demand for more trips until the weather improves in October-November...
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| The Silver Surfer parked at the Aquataxi office at Marahau |
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| The tide was just turning when I arrived at Marahau |
There were two boats on the day one going all the way to Totaranui and another to all the other bays along the coast. Both boats were full so there are still a few people out walking the tracks but nowhere like the numbers you normally see up here.
Overall I saw a lot less people this time around and most of the ones I encountered were Kiwis from Nelson or Richmond...
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| Brochure for Aquataxis Abel Tasman...less boats in winter |
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| The two Aquataxi boats waiting at Marahau... |
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| Pulling out of Marahau on the way north to the different bays... |
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| Split Apple rock never gets boring....Towers Bay |
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| One of the fancy lodges in Towers Bay near Split Apple Rock |
When we did the customary stop near Adele Island there was a pod of young seal pups cavorting in the ocean...they were curious and kept popping their heads up to see what the humans were up to. Super Cute...
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| Young Fur Seal pups in the ocean off Adele Island |
I was the only person who got off the boat at Onetahuti Beach as everyone else was either going to Torrent Bay, Bark Bay or Awaroa. The tide was half way in by the time we got there so the skipper had to drop me off at the far end of the beach as the water was a bit shallow. It was cool as the walk down the beach is easy...
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| Walking along Onetahuti Beach to the camp shelter |
I had to walk down to the southern end to start the climb over the hills to Bark Bay. Conditions were excellent for a tramp...sunny, light cloud and a slight breeze.
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| Tonga Island, Onetahuti Bay, Abel Tasman Coast Track |
There were a pair of Variable Oystercatchers resident on Onetahuti Beach, my presence did not disturb their sleep at all. I was the only person around as there were no people anywhere along the beach...I did see fresh footprints in the sand so I wasn't the first person on the beach that day.
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| A pair of Variable Oystercatchers on Onetahuti Beach |
There is a tidal crossing at Onetahuti Beach about 200 meters shy of the camp-site cooking shelter. Richardson Stream has cut a channel through the sand bar so you can only cross for four hours either side of low tide. When the tide is full the water coursing through the channel is waist deep and very dangerous. It was mid cycle so the crossing was still just about dry when I got there.
Do not try to cross at high tide...I have seen photos at high tide and it does not look cool!!!
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| View back along Onetahuti Beach...this is the blown out stream |
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| Onetahuti Beach shelter just visible at the end of the beach |
I stopped at the shelter at Onetahuti Beach to organise myself...I sorted out my pack, had a drink and took some photos of the camp-site. The whole camp-site is now covered in sand, I don't know if this is deliberate or a result of the big storm back in 2017. It would still be a nice place to camp but keeping that sand out of your tent would be a real pain.
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| Has sand been added to the camp-ground at Onetahuti Beach? |
I think the sand might have been thrown over the area by tidal surge as other similar camp-sites at Tonga Bay and Bark Bay were one meter underwater at the height of the 2017 storm.
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| Onetahuti Beach cooking shelter, Abel Tasman NP |
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| View from the Onetahuti Beach cooking shelter, Abel Tasman Coast Track |
After 10 minutes I set out on the two hour walk to Bark Bay Hut; you sidle around to Tonga Quarry and then climb over another headland to get to Bark Bay. The first section to Tonga Quarry was a nice easy track so no big problem.
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| Map: Abel Tasman NP: Onetahuti to Bark Bay |
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| Starting the climb out of Onetahuti Beach, Abel Tasman Coast Track |
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| Last view of Onetahuti Beach from the Abel Tasman Coastal Walk |
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| Heading to Tonga Quarry on the Abel Tasman Coastal Walk |
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| On the way to Tonga Bay camp-site, Abel Tasman NP |
The Tonga Bay camp site has been decommissioned since the big storm in 2017. Rising sea levels will eventually take all of these camp-sites as they are all only a few meters above mean sea level and they flood in the bigger storms.
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| Abel Tasman Coastal Track: ruins at Tonga Quarry...note the plaque |
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| The Stone Works plaque at Tonga Quarry |
Tonga Quarry still has a toilet but the water supply that used to be here is now gone. You can check out the ruins of an old jetty building used back in the early 1900's when limestone was quarried from the area for buildings in Nelson and Wellington.
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| The resident Weka at Tonga Quarry..not so many tasty treats any more... sad face :( |
The land used to extend another 3-4 meters out to sea...this is how much land was taken by just one ex tropical storm back in March 2017. Because of the parks location near Cook Strait any ex tropical cyclone will tend to graze the park as it passes through. This brings monstrous seas and heavy rain both of which are very destructive....
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| Tonga Island sits right off the Tonga Quarry site, Abel Tasman NP |
It is a bit of a steep climb up and out of the Tonga Quarry site, this is the last significant hill you climb before you get to Bark Bay Hut.
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| Leaving the Tonga Quarry campsite, Abel Tasman NP |
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| Climbing up out of Tonga Bay in the Manuka forest... |
Then it is a long sidle over a kind of tableland for about two kilometres before you drop down to Bark Bay and the bridge over Waterfall Creek. It seems like a much longer tramp than it appears on the map probably because there are few viewpoints in the thick, tall Manuka forest you are walking through. In the photo below Tonga Quarry camp site is in the dip between the two hills...
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| The long sidle above Tonga Quarry, Abel Tasman Coastal Walk |
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| First view of Bark Bay from the Abel Tasman Coastal Walk |
Waterfall Creek bridge is at the northern end of Bark Bay and signals your arrive at this locale. It is a sturdy looking edifice and needed as heavy rain in the hills can easily turn this river into a raging torrent...
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| Detail of Waterfall Creek bridge, Abel Tasman Coastal Walk |
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| The waterfalls above Waterfall Creek bridge... |
From Waterfall Creek it is a 700 meter walk around the estuary to the hut site at Bark Bay...this is all easy track as it is flat and well constructed. Keep your eyes open as the turn off to the hut is not sign posted very well.
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| Abel Tasman Coastal Walk: walking around the estuary at Bark Bay |
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| Last bush verge before Bark Bay Hut, Abel Tasman Coastal Walk |
I got to the hut at Bark Bay around 1.30 pm so it took me about 2.5 hours to cover the distance from Onetahuiti to Bark Bay. This is one of my favorite parts of this track as there is nice podocarp forest along both sides of the track for most of the way.
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| The turn off the main Abel Tasman Coast Track to Bark Bay Hut |
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| DOC track sign at Bark Bay Hut |
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| The rear of Bark Bay Hut, Abel Tasman NP |
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| The front of Bark Bay Hut, Abel Tasman NP |
BTW...I love the cooking shelters up here, DOC should build more of them around the country to encourage camping. One of the down sides to using a tent is the lack of space for socialising with other trampers..if you have a covered cook shelter it gives you somewhere to go out of any rain.
At Bark Bay Hut:
I spent my first night on the track at Bark Bay Hut which incidentally is my favorite hut on the Abel Tasman Coastal Track. The hut was about half full with 16 of us staying for the night.
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| Abel Tasman Coast Track: Bark Bay Hut |
Bark Bay has a lovely tidal estuary right in front of the hut...in the summer this is an excellent place to swim as the sandy floor of the estuary makes for nice clear water. There is a sand spit between the ocean and the estuary so you can walk across the exposed sand for about three hours either side of low tide.
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| The estuary at Bark Bay...low tide!!! |
First business was getting my gear set up in the hut...I chose my customary spot up against the back wall as it has a window for ventilation right next to it. It is also close to an outside door so trips to the toilet are much easier at night.
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| My pit set up inside Bark Bay Hut, Abel Tasman Coast Track |
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| My Atmos 50 AG inside Bark Bay Hut, Abel Tasman Coast Track |
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| Bark Bay Hut: interior of the sleeping area... |
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| Kitchen gear ready to go at Bark Bay Hut... |
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| Bark Bay Hut: interior of the living space |
Once I had my bunk spot squared away I went for a bit of a stroll around the local area to see if anything had changed since my last visit and to have a look at the estuary as the tide was changing once again.
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| The tide has started to fill the estuary at Bark Bay, Abel Tasman NP |
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| Looking across to the camp site at Bark Bay, Abel Tasman Coast Track |
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| The tidal flow in the Abel Tasman is fast and varies by 5+ meters.... |
I had my lunch at the picnic table in front of the hut...there are three tables here and as there were next to no sand flies around I was able to sit outside. For lunch I had crackers, mini brie cheese, smoked chicken and a packet of Ramen noodles.
The noodles were my emergency rations but I just felt like some noodley goodness....
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| My lunch at Bark Bay Hut...cheese and crackers with smoked chicken... |
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| Boiling for a brew at Bark Bay hut |
I had a luncheon companion in the form of Wodger the Weka who jumped up to the table and tried to help himself to my bounty......the manners of some people!!!!
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| My dining companion....Wodger the Weka....Bark Bay Hut |
After lunch and cleaning my cook gear I went out to the wood shed and chopped up enough firewood for the entire evening. The last time I was here they had some lovely red beech but this time it was all Manuka from the campsite renovation.
Manuka wood will split easily and once burning makes excellent coals but it is a hard wood and really difficult to get fired up in the first place. I had to gather a huge pile of drift wood and break it up so I could get the fire started. There was also little paper so I went and gathered a pile of tinder from the forest and dried it on the hut veranda.
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| Bark Bay Hut: firewood prep..... |
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| Drying some tinder for the fire, Bark Bay Hut |
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| Bark Bay Hut: more firewood for the evening |
I really enjoy the process of cutting firewood and preparing a fire...it is one of the reasons I like to go tramping. In Christchurch we are not allowed any fire places so hut life is the only time I get to practice my skills.
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| A full wood box at Bark Bay Hut |
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| Bark Bay Hut: the firebox is primed and ready to go... |
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| Jon enjoying the late afternoon sun at Bark Bay Hut |
I was the only person at the hut until nearly four pm when the first of the people walking from Awaroa and Anchorage started to arrive at the hut. I heard a few groups making their way past on the nearby Coast Track but few of them came to look at the hut.
Personally, I don't think I could pass a hut and not have a look see...
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| The estuary at Bark Bay Hut nearly full.... |
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| Lots of Weka around Bark Bay Hut in Abel Tasman NP |
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| Incoming tide at Bark Bay Hut...there is also a high tide track to the campsite... |
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| Bark Bay Hut: firewood shed and ablutions block... |
I went over and had a good look at the DOC staff hut co-located with Bark Bay Hut...the hut wardens accommodation is a small two room version of the bigger huts with a large bed, cooking facilities, gas hob, gas shower and solar panels for electricity. There would be worst places to have to spend your time while working...
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| The Bark Bay DOC staff hut....Abel Tasman National Park |
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| Bark Bay Staff hut has old but comfy seats outside... |
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| Avian cage for bird release program at the Bark Bay staff hut... |
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| View from the Bark Bay Staff hut...Bark Bay Lagoon |
Later in the afternoon a couple of boats came into the estuary and nosed around...the tidal range in the Abel Tasman is 5+ meters so the water is fairly deep in the estuary at high tide. It does make that camp site on the sand spit prone to flooding in storms...
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| At high tide boats can enter Bark Bay Estuary... |
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| High tide at the Bark Bay Estuary.... |
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| Jon at the Bark Bay Estuary... |
I walked over to the main beach around 5 pm and sat on the sand and enjoyed the view out to sea...it was still warm and there was little wind so it was most pleasant. I listened to the shrieks of shock as a group of trampers swam off the far end of the beach. I tried the water out on my legs up to the knee...it was bloody cold so I was not surprised.
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| View north along Bark Bay sand spit, Abel Tasman NP |
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| View out to sea from the Bark Bay campsite |
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| View south along the Bark Bay sand spit... |
There is a very nice campsite on the sandbar at the front of Bark Bay...there is room for about 10 tents here on sandy ground. There is a awesome kitchen shelter here but absolutely no shade whatsoever as DOC have cut down all the Manuka trees as a over the top safety measure. I think they are worried a tree would fall and squash some unsuspecting camper.
I know there are longer term plans to move the campsite to a flat clearing closer to the hut as this sandbar keeps getting inundated in big storms. The clearing was once the site of a private hut removed back in the 1990's and is 50 meters from the current hut.
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| Bark Bay Campsite: Abel Tasman NP |
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| The Bark Bay kitchen shelter....Abel Tasman NP |
There was a solo French woman camping next to the cook shelter..she was walking the whole track from Marahau to Totaranui. I told her to come over to the hut if it started raining (it was meant to rain but didnt...) as it was nearly empty.
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| Interior of recently painted Bark Bay kitchen shelter... |
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| Bark Bay campsite with tent pitched.... |
The hut was about half full of people with 17 people staying that night...there were also a couple of tents pitched over at the campsite.
I enjoyed a cheeky Australian Pinot Noir with my dinner of Mac n' Cheese with smoked chicken....very nice it was too. I was carrying it in a small water bottle and there was enough for a mug of wine with both dinner meals.
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| My quality wine receptacle.... |
There was an English couple staying in the hut and a German woman but all the rest of us were from New Zealand which is unusual for this track. It was cool overnight but I actually found I got too hot under my quilt and had to keep throwing it off myself during the night.
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| The Bark Bay Estuary from the sand spit campsite |
A couple was having very noisy sexual congress in the bunk room I was in after it got dark...it irritated a woman sleeping next to them so much she got up and noisily stormed out to sleep in the living area. Maybe keep the snuggle time for when you are alone yeah.....
The Joys of Hut Life..... hey...I think there is a book title in there???
Day Two: Bark Bay to Anchorage, 4 hours 11.5 km's
I was awake by 05.30 the next morning and could not get back to sleep so I just got up and went down to the beach to watch the sun rise over the eastern horizon. The tide was out so I was able to walk directly across to the sandbar without getting my feet wet. It was super dark on the beach as there are zero artificial sources of light in this bay.
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| Walking across the estuary at Bark Bay, Abel Tasman Coastal Track |
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| The sun rises on a new day at Bark Bay, Abel Tasman Coastal Track |
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| The outlet of Bark Bay Estuary from the sand spit.... |
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| An incoming tide at Bark Bay in the Abel Tasman NP |
I was keen to get gone and on my way to Anchorage so after a quick breakfast of rice pudding and apples, coffee and some salami I packed up my gear and engaged shanks pony. It was already warm as I left the hut site as it was another picture perfect day.
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| Bark Bay Hut on the morning of day two |
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| Map:Abel Tasman NP: Bark Bay to Anchorage |
Anchorage is approximately 13 km's away and it takes around four hours to reach that location. Because of the tides I would be at Torrent Bay at high tide which meant I would need to walk all the walk around the Torrent Bay estuary on the high tide track. as usual I was the first person out of the hut but I was quickly followed by the German woman and a couple who were walking to a pick up from Medlands Beach at 10 am...
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| Abel Tasman Coastal Track: on the way to Torrent Bay... |
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| Start of the Abel Tasman Coastal Track from Bark Bay |
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| The bridge at the southern end of Bark Bay, Abel Tasman Coastal Track |
I stopped of for my traditional last photo of Bark Bay which was looking very lovely in the early morning sunlight. I started the first climb of the day to Medlands Beach and from there up and over the ridge to the Falls River.
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| Last view of Bark Bay sand spit on day two... |
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| The track climbs out of Bark Bay |
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| Looking back to Bark Bay from the Abel Tasman Coastal Track |
As it was low tide the reef which lies just off Bark Bay was visible....normally this is a couple of meters under water.
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| Off shore reefs at the entrance to Bark Bay... |
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| Looking down to Medlands Beach from the Abel Tasman Coastal Track |
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| Maori carving near Medlands Beach, Abel Tasman Coastal Track |
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| On the way to Falls River from Bark Bay... |
The trip to Falls River takes about an hour as you climb up the ridge and then drop down to the river on the other side. I didn't follow the South Head track as I have been down to the lookout on one of my previous trips to this section of the track.
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| Near the side track to South Head...Abel Tasman Coastal Track |
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| Heading down to the Falls River from South Head, Abel Tasman Coastal Track |
I passed a couple coming up from the Sandfly Bay campsite at the mouth of the Falls River...from the Coast Track it looks like a nice wee bay to camp at...
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| Side track to Sandfly Bay from the Abel Tasman Coastal Track |
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| Thick forest o the way down to the Falls River, Abel Tasman Coastal Track |
The site can only be accessed at low tide so the couple were probably wading through some water as they left that morning...
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| Looking down on Sandfly Bay from the Abel Tasman Coast Track |
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| Abel Tasman Coast Track: track goes between two huge rocks |
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| A big Totora tree next to the Abel Tasman Coast Track |
The Falls River bridge is impressive...it is about 50 meters long and probably 20+ meters up off the river bed. Prior to the bridge being constructed trampers had to ford the Falls River which could be a problem as it is easily the largest river along this coastline.
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| Arrival at the Falls River bridge, Abel Tasman Coast Track |
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| ...love those creepy bridge signs at Falls River.... |
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| Abel Tasman Coast Track: Falls River bridge is 49 meters long... |
There is a track to the falls at the head of this river from Torrent Bay up the Tregidga Creek...a two hour return trip if you are interested. It really deserves to be a trip on its own rather than a side trip as it is a long way to walk just to see a small set of water falls.
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| View upstream from the Falls River bridge |
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| Falls river bridge from the southern end...Abel Tasman Coast Track |
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| View downstream from Falls River bridge, Abel Tasman Coast Track |
Past the Falls River you climb up and past Pt. 169 before starting a long slow sidle across some ridges as you move closer to Torrent Bay. This is the least interesting part of the day although there are some fine groves of native trees along the way...
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| Climbing up to Pt. 169 past Falls River |
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| Abel Tasman Coast Track: switchbacks past the Falls River |
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| Steep clay track past the Falls River bridge |
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| At the side track to Pt. 169 on the Abel Tasman Coast Track |
Just past the sidetrack to Pt. 169 there is a nice bench seat with excellent views down on to Frenchman's Bay and the southern end of the park. I stopped here for a break, drink and map check before donning my pack once again and continuing on my way to Torrent Bay.
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| Rimu grove along the Abel Tasman Coast Track south of Pt. 169 |
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| A bench seat above Frenchman Bay on the Abel Tasman Coast Track |
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| Frenchman Bay from the Abel Tasman Coast Track |
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| Information panel along the Abel Tasman Coast Track |
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| Pitt Head from above Frenchman Bay, Abel Tasman Coast Track |
The forest through here is some of the nicest on the track with several areas of mature original forest featuring Totora, Rimu, Beech and thick fern glades.
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| Thick podocarp forest near Frenchman Bay, Abel Tasman Coast Track |
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| Another Rimu grove along the Abel Tasman Coast Track |
Halfway Bridge crosses Kilby Stream and is more or less the halfway pint between Bark Bay and Anchorage if you are using the high tide track around the estuary. The water if clear here and this is a fine water source if supplies are running low...just filter or treat it before use.
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| Halfway Bridge between Frenchman Bay and Torrent Bay, Abel Tasman Coast Track |
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| Good drinking water in Halfway Pool, Abel Tasman Coast Track |
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| Climbing the last ridge before Torrent Bay, Abel Tasman Coast Track |
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| Abel Tasman Coast Track: the headland forest is more open on the Abel Tasman Coast Track |
Once past Halfway Pool you start the long slow sidle to a point up above Torrent Bay...from here you descend down the track to the largest collection of private residences in Abel Tasman National Park.
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| Crossing a gully on the way to Torrent Bay, Abel Tasman Coast Track |
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| Descending to Torrent Bay, Abel Tasman Coast Track |
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| Wind fall forest on the ridge above Ballon Bay, Abel Tasman Coast Track |
From the last ridge-line you can see down to Torrent Bay Village, Torrent Bay Estuary and around to Anchorage on the other side of this large sheltered bay.
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| First view of Torrent Bay, Abel Tasman Coast Track |
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| Jon on the Abel Tasman Coast Track near Torrent Bay |
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| Distant view of Anchorage from above Torrent Bay |
Take care on the descent to the village as the track is that slick clay common to the Tasman region and super treacherous when wet or frosty.
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| The steep clay track down to Torrent Bay, Abel Tasman Coast Track |
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| The last bridge before Torrent Bay Settlement |
Torrent Bay Village is a collection of private holiday homes on free hold land within the park. Normally no private homes are allowed in a National Park but by the time Abel Tasman was set up in the 1940's some of the land had freehold title. These house at Torrent Bay and those at Awaroa will eventually be the only private areas within the park as all the leased land has now reverted to Crown control.
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| Torrent Bay residents are jealous of their properties.... |
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| ...stay on the marked track through Torrent Bay.... |
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| A new map at the Torrent Bay Village... |
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| The beach at Torrent Bay, distant Anchorage |
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| Still 1.5 hours walking to Anchorage if the tide is high.... |
There is a real mix of houses at Torrent Bay...they range from small garden shacks right up to multi million dollar mansions. The nicest houses border the beach while the ones at the back of the settlement tend to be smaller and in the forest.
The only way to Torrent Bay is by boat or walking as there are no roads to this settlement. All these houses are totally off grid so no municipal power, water or sewage. Most have solar panels, gas and water tanks from the rain gutters.
Personally I think it would be amazing to own a home here...I can imagine spending time in the forest and waterboarding and swimming off the beautiful beach.
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| Some of the holiday homes at Torrent Bay, Abel Tasman Coast Track |
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| The Abel Tasman Coast Track follows Manuka Street through Torrent Bay..... |
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| ...and turns down Manuka Street to the campsite... |
There are two ways to Anchorage from Torrent Bay:
1. ) there is a tidal crossing over the Torrent Bay estuary at low tide. This takes 20 minutes to walk over and crosses a low saddle on the far side of the estuary to access Anchorage Beach.
2.) there is a 2 hour, five kilometer high water track right around the estuary to the same low saddle.
I arrived as the tide had started to fill Torrent Bay Estuary...it was far too deep to contemplate a crossing as there is a deep channel on the Anchorage side of the bay. So...I had to take the two hour trip around the coastline as I had no other choice.
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| Tidal estuary at Torrent Bay, Abel Tasman Coast Track |
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| The low tide crossing is to the distant saddle, Torrent Bay, Abel Tasman Coast Track |
I stopped at the torrent Bay campsite for a 10 minute snack/drink/toilet break before starting the long walk around the estuary. The Torrent Bay campsite is a bit rough and ready but provides tent spots for about 15 tents in a grove of Manuka trees. It has water (must be boiled before use) toilets and picnic tables with some flat spots suitable for pitching a tent. No kitchen shelter here which is a pity as every other campsite has them...
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| Abel Tasman Coast Track: the campsite at Torrent Bay |
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| Abel Tasman Coast Track: water for campers at Torrent Bay |
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| Abel Tasman Coast Track: toilets at the Torrent Bay campsite |
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| Abel Tasman Coast Track: Typical campsite at Torrent Bay |
The Torrent Bay high tide track isn't difficult to walk just long and exposed to the sun in a number of places. For the most part it is flat bush track or sidles around headlands with a small hill to pass at the start and the long slow climb up to the turn off to Anchorage at the far end. If you have the option to use the tidal crossing do so as it saves over 4 kilometers and 1.5 hours of walking.
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| Heading to Anchorage on the Torrent Bay high tide track... |
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| Tidal flats at the head of Torrent Bay estuary |
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| Bridge over Tregidga Creek, Abel Tasman Coast Track |
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| Narrow passage on the Torrent Bay high tide track, Abel Tasman NP |
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| Climbing around a ridge on the Torrent Bay high tide track |
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| Exposed section of the Torrent Bay high tide track |
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| Bush section of the Torrent Bay high tide track, Abel Tasman NP |
There is a small shady rest spot halfway around the estuary with a couple of picnic tables and a water tap...good for a break if it is a hot sunny day...
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| Point halfway around the Torrent Bay estuary, Abel Tasman Coast Track |
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| The Torrent River enters Torrent Bay, Abel Tasman NP |
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| Im heading for that low saddle in the middle of the photo.... |
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| Bridge along the torrent Bay high tide track |
Where you are heading is to the mouth of the Torrent River where it meets the estuary...there is a bridge here over the river and a side track to Cleopatra's Pools.
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| Torrent River close to the turn off to Cleopatra's Pool, Abel Tasman Coast Track |
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| Good view of the tidal Torrent River, Abel Tasman Coast Track |
I didn't do the walk up to Cleopatra's Pool this time as I visited when I was here back in 2017. It is about 1 kilometer return and takes 30 minutes to reach the pool and return to the main track. It is well worth visiting if you have never been...especially if it is hot as there is a nice swimming hole there.
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| Turn off to Cleopatra's Pool, Abel Tasman Coast Track |
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| Abel Tasman Coast Track: Cleopatra's Pools from my visit in 2017 |
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| Torrent River Bridge from the Abel Tasman Coast Track |
It has been unseasonably dry up here this year so the Torrent River was slow moving and insipid...the river water is rich with tannins from the forest further up its course.
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| Deep pool near the Torrent River bridge, Abel Tasman NP |
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| Crossing the Torrent River bridge on the way to Anchorage |
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| View upstream of the Torrent River, Abel Tasman Coast Track |
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| Last view of the Torrent River Bridge, Abel Tasman Coast Track |
Ten minutes past the Torrent River is a side track to the Inland Track in the hills behind the coast. From here it would be 2-3 long hard hours of climbing up to Holyoake's Clearing and a further 2-3 hours to Castle Rocks Hut.
There are a multitude of tracks heading inland along the course of the Coastal Track...I will have to take you there one day...
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| Turn off to the Inland Track, Abel Tasman Coast Track |
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| My rest spot near the Inland Track junction, Abel Tasman Coast Track |
I stopped here for a 10 minute break before starting the last climb of the day...up to the track junction of the Coastal Track and the Anchorage Access Track.
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| On the last stretch around Torrent Bay, Abel Tasman Coast Track |
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| A full Torrent Bay estuary after the tide turned... |
It is a good idea to don your sun hat before setting out as this section of the track is exposed to the sun for 30 odd minutes. More than long enough to get a sun burn...
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| Climbing the Abel Tasman Coast Track to the Anchorage turn off |
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| Crossing a stream just past Torrent River bridge... |
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| A random Weka I encountered just before the Anchorage turn off... |
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| Turn off to Anchorage Beach from the Torrent Bay high tide track... |
Eventually you get to the track junction and start down the side track to the saddle you cross when using the low tide route. From the junction you are only 15 minutes away from Anchorage beach so you are on the home stretch ...
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| The Torrent Bay tidal track is nearly 5 km's.... |
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| Heading down the ridge to Anchorage Beach from the Abel Tasman Coast Track |
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| Only view of Anchorage as you descend to the beach... |
It is an easy descent down a ridge-line for about a kilometer before you pop out onto the saddle between Torrent Bay and Anchorage. Turn right and continue down to the beach...
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| The ridge track to Anchorage...clay...exposed...windy!!! |
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| ...and covered bush section down to Anchorage... |
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| At the apex of the Torrent Bay low tide track...heading to Anchorage |
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| View down the Torrent Bay low tide track... |
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| It is only 30 mins to Torrent Bay on the low tide track!!!! |
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| Dropping down to Anchorage on the Torrent Bay low tide track |
The last section from the Torrent Bay low tide track saddle to Anchorage is steep so watch your step...
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| Abel Tasman NP; on the Torrent Bay low tide track to Anchorage.... |
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| First close view of the Anchorage for the day, Abel Tasman NP |
You finally pop out onto the beach at Anchorage...the campsite and hut are at the southern or far end of the beach in a nice flat section of bush. Walk down the beach to the hut as there is no track along the back of the sand...
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| Beautiful Anchorage Beach from the northern end, Abel Tasman NP |
You can see in the photo how low the saddle between Anchorage and Torrent Bay is..it would about 40 meters a.s.l...The hill on the right is Pt. 100 and is a small headland between Anchorage and Torrent Bay.
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| Looking back to the low saddle the Torrent Bay tidal track crosses |
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| View of Pitt Head from Anchorage Beach, Abel Tasman NP |
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| Southern end of Anchorage Beach, Abel Tasman NP |
I see they are doing some dune restoration work at Anchorage...they have planted some flax, grasses and sedge's along the back of the beach as well as hardy coastal trees.
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| They are restoring the dunes at the Anchorage |
I finally arrived at Anchorage Hut site at about 2 pm so I had been walking for approximately 5 hours at that point. There were a couple of people waiting for the water-taxi coming at 3 pm but the whole area felt quite deserted to me. The absence of tourists is really making a difference to how busy the park is...
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| Entrance to the hut and campsite at the Anchorage, Abel Tasman NP |
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| DOC sign at the Anchorage |
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| Palatial Anchorage Hut, Abel Tasman NP |
Back at the palatial Anchorage Hut for my third visit....it really is one of the best DOC huts I have visited so far. The previous hut was a copy of Bark Bay and far less salubrious...
At Anchorage Hut:
I was the second person to arrive at Anchorage Hut that afternoon..the German woman from Bark Bay had managed to get there before me. The hut has a number of 8 bunk 'cells' instead of the usual one big room to house them all so I chose the second cell from the living area.
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| Anchorage Hut, Abel Tasman NP |
It was nice to sit down for awhile out of the sun and I enjoyed a bit of a rest before setting up my sleeping gear and getting some late lunch together
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| Jon outside the bunk-room cell at Anchorage Hut... |
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| My pit set up in a bunk-room at Anchorage Hut, Abel Tasman NP |
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| Places for hanging gear in the bunk-rooms at Anchorage Hut, Abel Tasman NP |
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| Handy bunk-room storage space at Anchorage Hut, Abel Tasman NP |
I had some soup, a brew and crackers, cheese & salami for lunch and boy did it go down a real treat....more damn Weka to vex me...they kept trying to pinch stuff off the table the cheeky buggers.
People feed them at the camp sites so they are always looking for a hand out or to pinch your gear when you are not looking. Always stash your gear out of reach in Weka country...inside the hut or zipped up tent or higher than three feet off the ground.
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| Boiling for a brew at Anchorage Hut, Abel Tasman NP |
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| Lunch is crackers, cheese and salami at Anchorage Hut |
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| That first brew is always the best....Anchorage Hut |
After lunch I tided my gear away and went for a walk around the hut site...this is a well thought out hut with piles of space, nice surroundings and some cool features. They have filtered water taps for drinking water, a large and spacious living area and even a USB compatible charge station for I-pads and cell phones.
Neat...
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| Anchorage Hut: information panel in the living area |
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| Anchorage Hut: the dining space at the hut |
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| Anchorage Hut: food preparation area |
The site is well set out with a toilet block at both ends of the accommodation and plenty of outdoor seating for when the weather is good enough to sit outside and enjoy it.
Watch those damn-ed Weka...!!!
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| Another Maori carving next to Anchorage Hut: |
At 3 pm I went down to the beach and got a prime spot to watch the water taxi come in to collect the day trampers. I sat down on the beach for over an hour enjoying the view and snoozing in the warm afternoon sun. Still too damn cold for a swim regardless of how lovely it looks on a sunny spring day...
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| View towards North Head from Anchorage Beach |
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| The only private residence at Anchorage, Abel Tasman NP |
After this I went for a wander down to the far southern end of the beach before walking back through the campsite. There are sites for over 70 tents here with two big kitchen shelters, tables, fire-pits and ablution blocks. This area gets super busy over the summer with hordes of tourists, day trampers, yachting folk and people spending their summer holidays camping here for a couple of days.
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| Mouth of Anchorage Stream, Abel Tasman NP |
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| Tidal flats along Pitt Head, Anchorage, Abel Tasman NP |
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| The campsite at Anchorage, Abel Tasman NP |
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| A large camp kitchen at the Anchorage camp site, Abel Tasman NP |
I also went and had a look at the DOC wardens hut ...a copy of the Bark Bay and Awaroa huts it has space for 1-3 people and all the con-weniences one would need to comfortable. I saw the DOC Ranger on day three...he was walking into Anchorage as I was climbing that big hill back to the main track. They must have Saturday and Sunday off as I didn't see any DOC staff for the rest of the weekend...
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| Anchorage DOC staff quarters. Abel Tasman NP |
We had a nearly full hut that night with 24 people staying for the night. Most of the people were couples or groups but there were a couple of us singletons as well. I had one of the Outdoor Gourmet meals for dinner...Venison and Rice Noodle Stirfry...it is good eating...easily the tastiest freeze dried meal I have tried.
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| Venison and Rice Noodle Stirfry |
Surprisingly I had a bunk-room cell to myself as the couple who had stashed their gear in my one decided to sleep in the living area instead. They were gone by the time I got up the next morning as I think they were trying to catch the low tide at 6 am.
BTW..if you are up here and need to go out to answer the call of nature stop and admire the stars before heading back inside.
WOW...!!!!
It is amazing...so many stars in the sky and the Milky Way is clearly visible on a dark clear night.
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| Another view of the Anchorage Hut bunk-rooms, Abel Tasman NP |
So it had been two excellent days of tramping so far with nice huts to stay in and a real dearth of people using the track. I had one more day which would see me walking from Anchorage back to Marahau along the Abel Tasman Coastal Track.
Come back soon to see part two of this trip as I finish the walk out to Marahau...
Access: Water taxi from Kaiteriteri or Marahau, the trip takes one hour from Marahau to Totaranui, 1.5 hours from Kaiteriteri
Track Times: 7.2 km's or 2.5 hours Onetahuti to Bark Bay, 12.7 km's or 4-4.5 hours Bark Bay to Anchorage
Hut Details: Bark Bay Hut: serviced, 34 bunks, wood burner, filtered water tank, wood shed, flush toilets: Anchorage Hut: serviced, 34 bunks, wood burner, filtered water tank, wood shed, flush toilets; There are DOC camp sites at various points along the coast with spots for 5-70 tents, check the DOC website for details
Miscellaneous: On DOC Great Walk booking system, must be booked for overnight visit. Hut warden in residence from 1st October to 30th April each year. Tidal crossing at Onetahuti Bay and Torrent Bay so check the DOC tide charts when planning your trip. There is a 2 hour, 5 km high tide track around Torrent Bay Estuary
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