I recently completed my 30 year Great Walks saga by walking the Routeburn Track over the first week of March. If you are a regular visitor you will know I walked my first Great Walk way back in 1989 when I did an Army exercise along what became the Northern Circuit in Tongariro NP. I have been chipping away at them ever since...this was my last!
This time around I started from Routeburn Shelter and walked to the Divide over four days and three nights. I started from Te Anau with an early morning shuttle around to Queenstown. I was the only passenger so I sat up front with the driver...it was a pleasant two hour trip.
I had a two hour stop over in Queenstown before the shuttle arrived to take me to the start of the track so I left my gear at the shuttle coffice and went for a walk. I brought some lunch from Fergbaker and sat on a seat down by the waterfront and ate it. Fergbaker is the new bakery arm of Ferg Burger the well known burger restaurant in Queenstown.
I had my tramping clothes and clunky boots on...I must have looked weird because people kept staring at me!!! Jon didn't fit into the fashionable society down by the Southern Lakes...no Icebreaker merino.
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| The Track Transport office in Queenstown |
A second shuttle carried us from Queenstown to the start of the track at the Routeburn Shelter and it took about an hour and a half to cover the distance. There were only half a dozen of us on the shuttle as I imagine most people would have caught the morning shuttle service.
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| The shuttle to the Routeburn Shelter in Queenstown... |
On the way we stopped in lovely Glenorchy at the head of Lake Wakatipu...this is only the second time I have been here. The last visit was way back in the early 1990's and boy has the township changed. We had a 20 minute break here so I walked down to the lakeside and took some photos...
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| Lake Wakatipu from the beach at Glenorchy |
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| Humboldt Range from Glenorchy, Lakes District |
Another 45 bone shaking minutes along gravel roads and I finally arrived at the start of the track around 1.30 in the afternoon...
Routeburn Shelter to Routeburn Flats Hut:
Most trampers walk from the Routeburn Shelter right through to Routeburn Falls Hut but as I was starting so late in the day I decided to stay a night at Routeburn Flats Hut. It was an inspired choice because I had the whole 20 bunk hut to myself and it meant I only had a 1 hour and 45 minute walk the first day.
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| Routeburn Shelter: information panels inside... |
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| Routeburn Shelter: Information about the old Maori Greenstone trails... |
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| Routeburn Shelter was busy on the day I arrived... |
I started from the Routeburn Shelter which is an ultra modern building constructed in 2019 so it is still practically brand new. It is an open sided shelter with benches, seats, toilets and lots of information panels about the local area. It was full of people on the day as the Ultimate Hikes guided walkers were just arriving from Routeburn Falls Lodge...
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| Routeburn Shelter, Mt Aspiring NP |
The Routeburn Track starts nearby with a short track leading to a swing-bridge over the Routeburn before the track starts the climb up along the Routeburn Gorge to the hut site.
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| Start of the Routeburn Track opposite the shelter |
It is approximately seven kilometers to Routeburn Flats from the start of the track and takes 1.5-2 hours to complete. If you are walking right through to Routeburn Falls (as everyone else was) you are looking at a four hour trip over about 10 kilometers.
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| It is 1.5-2 hours to Routeburn Flats....nice short day! |
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| The first bridge over the Routeburn.... |
Burn is the Scottish name for a river so from this point on I will just refer to the Routeburn using its Scottish appellation.
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| Downstream from the Routeburn swing-bridge.... |
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| ...up stream from the Routeburn swingbridge.... |
Once you cross the bridge you are right into a moderate climb for the next hour or so. You are walking above the Routeburn on a quality gravel track...the climb is not too step but it is un relenting and you are going to get sick of walking uphill very quickly.
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| I start the climb to the Routeburn Flats.... |
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| Explanation of the colored track markers along the Routeburn Track |
I passed many people on the way...all of them were coming down from one of the huts or returning from the short Nature Walk along the banks of the Routeburn. The track is well maintained and easy to walk on and you just have to plod along...
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| The Routeburn Track is wide and well constructed.... |
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| Massive Beech tree just off the Routeburn Track |
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| ...already 20 minutes along the Routeburn Track.... |
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| Typical Beech forest along the first section of the Routeburn Track |
You soon find yourself at the swing-bridge over Sugarloaf Stream and it is the first of several bridges you will cross over the rest of the day. The views from the bridge were awesome with the stream bed giving views up into the nearby mountains and down to the Routeburn.
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| Sugarloaf Stream Swingbridge, Routeburn Track |
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| Crossing the Sugarloaf Stream on the bridge...Routeburn Track |
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| A fairly dry Sugarloaf Stream, Routeburn Track |
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| ...Sugarloaf Stream swing-bridge is long and bouncy... |
The forest down here is all Beech with a variety of types including Silver Beech, Red Beech, Mountain Beech and Black Beech. The undergrowth is dense and comes right up to the sides of the track...
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| Climbing up the Routebrun Gorge...Routeburn Track |
About 30 minutes into the walk I was passed by two DOC Rangers who were acting as hut wardens in Routeburn Flats and Routeburn Falls Huts. They are a couple and I had a long conversation with the female warden at Routeburn Flats Hut as we were the only two people there that evening.
If you happen to read this post I hope your wedding plans work out...
...all the best for the future!!!
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| I was passed by two DOC Rangers...Routeburn Track |
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| Lots of glacial remnants along the Routeburn Track |
The section from Bridal Veil Creek to Sappers Pass is the steepest of this walk and you will need to have a few breaks to "admire the scenery" as you navigate this part.
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| Piled up rocks along the Routeburn Track |
Bridal Veil Creek was interesting and features the first of the Azure blue streams you seem to get in these parts. The water is a most amazing color and is accentuated by the deep cut limestone in the stream beds which makes it beautiful...
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| Arriving at Bridal Veil Creek, Routeburn Track |
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| Bridal Veil Creek Bridge...Routeburn Track |
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| Beautiful Bridal Veil Creek...Routeburn Track |
Just past Bridal Veil Creek look for the view back down to the area around Routeburn Shelter as it is the last time you will see this end of the track...
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| Last view of the Routeburn Shelter area... |
You spend about 40 minutes walking up through the Routeburn Gorge where the river narrows and has cut its way deeply into the underlaying rock. There are many excellent views of the river and you will find a few side tracks down to the edge of the Routeburn if you would like to stop for a break, water resupply or just to admire its beauty.
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| The Routeburn in the Routeburn Gorge... |
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| Bluffs line the Routeburn Gorge section of the track |
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| Beautiful view of Routeburn Gorge |
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| The Routeburn Track passes by close to Routeburn Gorge |
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| Brilliant azure color in the Routeburn |
After 45-50 minutes of walking you will arrive at a toilet sitting just off the track. This is the half way point for those walking through to Routeburn Flats. Make use of the convenience as it is the only one you will find until you arrive at the hut.
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| The toilet near Sappers Pass is the halfway point.... |
I stopped nearby for a break and sat just off the track while I had a drink, some snacks and a peruse of the map. The toilet was a bit stinky so walk at least 100 meters up the track to get away from the wiff if you decide to stop here.
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| Routeburn Track...near Sappers Pass |
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| Rest spot just past the toilet site...Routeburn Track |
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| Jon on the Routeburn Track near Sappers Pass |
About 500 meters further up the track you will find the sign for Sappers Pass...this marks the effective end to the hills for the day. From here the gradient of the track evens out and you will be walking along mostly flat track just in from the edge of the forest.
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| Huge bluffs on the true right of the Routeburn |
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| I arrive at Sappers Pass, Routeburn Track |
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| Above the Routeburn Gorge on the Routeburn Track |
There is a turn off to Forge Flats near Sappers Pass...this is a flat area next to the Routeburn and would make a nice lunch spot. I went down and had a look at the river before continuing on my way.
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| Routeburn Track...the turn off to Forge Flat |
There are some impressive bluffs just up from Forge Flat with a thick covering of alpine grasses. Sections of the bluff have collapsed down and you could see it is dark Mudstone with visible layers of sediments laid down by some ancient river or sea.
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| Mudstone bluffs along the Routeburn Track |
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| This rock was the size of a van...Routeburn Track |
Eventually you arrive at Twin Bridge which as the name suggests is a group of two footbridges you have to cross. The Twin Bridges are the end of the Routeburn Gorge section and the start of the Routeburn Flats which are only a couple of hundred meters up the track.
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| Twin Bridge No. 1...Routeburn Track |
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| The Routeburn from the first of the Twin Bridges |
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| ...nice looking swimming hole in the Routeburn.... |
There is a short 100 meter section of track in between the two bridges and then you are crossing the Routeburn for the final time. From this point on you are on the true right of the river all the way to Routeburn Flats Hut.
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| Twin Bridge No. 2...Routeburn Track |
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| ...the stream bed was dry under Twin Bridge No. 2... |
The next kilometer of track has to be some of the nicest track I have walked in years...it was wide, flat and covered in fine gravel and made for quick walking...it was an excellent end to the days toil.
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| Good quality track approaching Routeburn Flats... |
From this point onwards you can see the Routeburn Flats off to your right and over the river. The Flats stretch from here all the way to the Routeburn Flats Hut.
You are on the last 30 minutes of the track...
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| First view of the eastern end of Routeburn Flats |
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| Fernery along the Routeburn Track near Routeburn Flats |
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| Routeburn Flats looking down towards Routeburn Gorge |
Eventually you arrive at the junction of the Routeburn Track and the side track to Routeburn Flats. I stopped to talk to a group of trampers at the junction who were making their way down from Routeburn Falls Hut. They had started walking at 2 pm and were heading for the Routeburn Shelter.
Bit late in the day but....
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| Intersection of the Routeburn Track and side track to Routeburn Flats |
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| It is 5 mins or 250 meters to Routeburn Flats from the junction |
I headed off down the track to the hut and the nearby Routeburn Flats and from the junction it is only 250 meters or about five minutes walking time.
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| Side track to the Routeburn Flats Hut...just about there!! |
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| First view of Routeburn Flats Hut |
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| Routeburn Flats Hut, Mt Aspiring NP |
I arrived at Routeburn Flats Hut to find it deserted...there were no crowds of tourists here...Covid has impacted even this track. It had taken me one hour and 45 minutes to walk from Routeburn Shelter to Routeburn Flats.
At Routeburn Flats Hut:
Routeburn Flats Hut sits on the edge of a large open grassland that make up the Routeburn Flats. It is a 20 bunk Great Walk hut so it must be booked before your stay and it is in good nick for something built back in the late 1980's. Normally it would be heaving with tourists but Covid has impacted the number of visitors we see in New Zealand.
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| Entrance to Routeburn flats Hut |
There is a awesome outdoor living area attached to the hut with benches, tables, seats, a cooking bench and water taps. There is a separate camp shelter down at the Routeburn Campsite but I would imagine a few campers use these facilities from time to time.
More huts should have a covered space like this...
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| The outdoor living space at Routeburn Flats Hut |
The interior of the hut was very, very tidy for an older hut...it looks to have been recently painted and the bunkrooms had those new comfortable blue mats that DOC have started to use. There would be plenty of space inside the hut for its intended number of guests and this would be an awesome place to visit for a shoulder season overnight trip.
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| Routeburn Flats Hut: living area... |
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| Routeburn Flats Hut: cooking area... |
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| Routeburn Flats Hut: bunkroom A..... |
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| Routeburn Flats Hut: bunkroom B.... |
I had the hut to myself that night...if you can believe that on a Great Walk in February. Hell...I wasn't complaining just surprised as I thought it would be full. I had my pick of the bunks and used the one adjacent as my storage space for my pack, spare clothing etc.
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| My pit set up in bunkroom B, Routeburn Flats Hut |
It was warm at Routeburn Flats with temperatures in the mid 20's and beautifully still and
sunny. I set my gear up, gave the hut a bit of tidy up and had a late lunch at 4 pm.
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| Great views of the Routeburn Flats from the hut.... |
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| ...pate for lunch at Routeburn Flats Hut... |
After a hot drink and some food I went and explored the local area...I walked up to the nearby campsite to take a look and was impressed. Nice grassy sites with plenty of trees for shade and wind cover with the Routeburn close by.
Very nice...it would be a fantastic spot to camp at.
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| Routeburn Flats looking up the North Branch |
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| View down to lower Routeburn Flats |
I was down having a splash in the river when a party of six came walking down the North Branch of the Routeburn. I had a chat to them about their trip...they had been up the Rockburn and over a pass somewhere up the North Branch...real Tiger country.
It sounded cool but it was not for Jon especially on my own...a trip up the North Branch to camp could be an idea...
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| The Routeburn looking towards Routeburn Flats Campsite |
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| Routeburn Falls (center) is the location of the second hut.... |
The Routeburn Flats are impressive and surrounded by some big mountain ranges..it was beautiful country. There looks to be a ton of good tramping up there for those who like to go off piste...
You could see the Routeburn Falls and the odd glint of light off the windows of Routeburn Lodge up at the head of the valley. You can clearly make out the route of the track up to the Routeburn Falls from down by the river. That was to be my path on the next day.
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| Routeburn Flats Hut, Mt Aspiring NP |
BTW...there is a monster Totara tree right next to the hut...it is easily two meters around the trunk and looked to be about 30 meters tall. It dominates the clearing the hut is located in.
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| Massive Totara Tree outside Routeburn Flats Hut |
I had a peaceful stay at Routeburn Flats Hut that night and heard both Kiwi and Ruru after dark as it was so quiet around the hut. This was a great introduction to the scenic beauties of the Routeburn Track and I was looking forward to what the new day had in store for me.
Access: From Queenstown I took the shuttle to the Routeburn Shelter stopping at Glenorchy on the way. It is 7 kilomters or 1.5 to 2 hours walk from the Shelter to Routeburn Flats Hut. The access road to Routeburn Shelter is gravel and can be difficult to use in winter due to deep snow.
Track Times: Routeburn Shelter to Routeburn Flats Hut is 7 kilometers or 1.5-2 hours walking time.
Hut Details: Routeburn Shelter: toilets, water, covered seating, information panels: Routeburn Flats Hut: Great Walk, 20 bunks, wood burner, water tanks, wood shed, toilets: Routeburn Campsite: Great Walk, 15 sites, cooking shelter, water, compostable toilets
Miscellaneous: All Great Walk huts/campsites are on the DOC Hut booking system, must be booked for overnight visit. Hut Warden present over summer season. Easy track but some uphill sections especially along the Routeburn Gorge.
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