Abel Tasman Coastal Track: Day 2: Anchorage to Bark Bay

 

Heading to my favorite hut at Bark Bay 

Everyone was up and getting ready for action quite early the next day as we all wanted to make use of the low tide crossing of Torrent Bay. You can cross the Inlet two hours either side of low tide shaving at least 1-1.5 hours off your day. It is well worth the effort as the high tide route around the Inlet is long and not that interesting. 

Setting out from Anchorage in the morning 

The camp-site and DOC hut are located at the eastern end of Anchorage Bay close to Pitt Head so you have to walk right down to the other end to get to the low tide crossing.  

Captain James Cook visited Anchorage several times while circumnavigating the coast of New Zealand in the 1770's. I can see why it appealed to him.

The low tide crossing is at the end of Anchorage Beach

The headland betwen Anchorage and Torrent Bay

You are heading for a low saddle at the western end of the beach and it is well sign posted with DOC signs and a huge orange track marker...

The track heads off Anchorage Beach

Signs and track marker for the walk over the saddle

As it was 7 am the sun was just starting to rise over Pit Head and I enjoyed the warmth it gave me once it cleared the ridges. 

Sun rises over Pitts Head at anchorage

It is a very short climb to get over the saddle to Torrent Inlet. It is about 40 meters to the top and the same down the other side. The track is in good condition and easy to climb.

Climbing to the saddle between Anchorage and Torrent Inlet

At the head of Torrent Bay is a short side track to Cleopatra's Pool so if you have never visited its worth the trip as it is only 10 minutes return and it is quite scenic. You have to climb up to the main Coastal Track and follow it around to the Torrent River.  In summer time this is a popular destination as you can use the smooth rocks as a slide especially when the river is high. 

Head left to climb to the main coastal Track

Descending the saddle track to Torrent Inlet

The track over the saddle ends on the mud flats of the Torrent Inlet. From here you need to don your water shoes as it takes about 20 minutes to walk to the other side and the sandy mud is full of sharp shells. I had a pair of knock off Crocs for the tidal crossings and they worked a treat. 

On the mud flats at the Torrent Inlet

Ready to head across to Torrent Bay settlement

Most of the way you are walking from marker post to marker post but you need to pick the best route so don't blindly follow them as the channels in the Inlet change all the time. You want to avoid the channels as much as possible and try to stay on the sand banks. 

Looking back to the saddle to Anchorage

Torrent Inlet: first river channel

Torrent Inlet: you walk from sand flat to sandflat

The crossing is about one kilometer long with handy orange markers to show you where the usual route lies. It basically goes from sand bar to sand bar from one side of the estuary to the other. You are heading towards the campsite at Torrent Bay settlement where you can get back onto the Coastal Track through the houses. 

Torrent Inlet: the campsite is behind the distant boat

Torrent Inlet: Torrent River channel

You may have to cross some river channels on the way...just handle them like any other water crossing...look for the shallowest point. Generally the wider the crossing the more shallow and watch the speed of the water as the flow will increase after heavy or prolonged rainfall. 

Seeking out shallow water crossing Torrent Inlet

Torrent Inlet: On the sandflats half way across

Once on the western side of the crossing look for one of the sets of steps which lead up off the beach and onto the track. 

One of the stairs to exit the Torrent Inlet

View back across the Torrent Inlet

The Torrent Bay Campsite is the most basic along this coastline...it consists of 10 scratch camp sites, a set of toilets and a water point set amongst regenerating scrub and Manuka trees. I passed by on my way towards the settlement but did not stop as I had only just started my day. 

Torrent Bay Campsite, Abel Tasman NP

On the Abel Tasman Coastal Track near Torrent Bay

Torrent Inlet at low tide

Torrent Bay Village is a collection of private lodges and holiday homes situated within the boundary of the national park. Because the houses had free hold titles when the park was set up in the 1940's the owners are allowed to sell, build, extend and modify the land they own.

On Manuka Road in the Torrent Bay Settlement

Follow the DOC markers through Torrent Bay Settlement

Some of the houses at Torrent Bay are quite nice but none of them look like they belong to the mega rich. If this was any other country but New Zealand there would be multiple million dollar houses all along this beach.

One of the nicer houses at Torrent Bay

I spotted a number of Tui in a tree next to the track and could hear many more in the surrounding area. Torrent Bay is a good place to see them and I have spotted Tui every time I have passed this way over the last five years. 

Tui in a tree at the Torrent Bay Settlement

Torrent Bay can only be accessed by boat or on foot as there is no road access to the settlement even though there are a couple of car sized dirt tracks there.

Manuka Street...main drag at Torrent Bay Settlement

You can see the Anchorage and Pitt Head clearly from the beach at Torrent Bay, they are less than two km's away at this point. If you arrive at high tide it is nearly two more hours walking to get to the DOC hut or camp site around the long and dusty high water track. 

View towards Anchorage from Torrent Bay Settlement

Low tide on the Torrent Bay Settlement beach

The landowners at Torrent Bay are VERY protective of their land rights so you must stay on the marked track while transiting through the settlement. I believe that the land can only be brought by and owned by Kiwis...this is to stop ownership leaving New Zealand.

The DOC track at Torrent Bay Settlement

Torrent Bay Settlement: turning inland

Last section of track through Torrent Bay Settlement

The route between Torrent Bay and Bark Bay is the hardest of the whole track. Because of the nature of the terrain you have to climb and then descend two 150+ meter hills during the day. The first is between Torrent Bay and the Falls River the second is between the Falls River and Bark Bay. If you have to use the high tide track there is an additional 200 meter climb between the Torrent River and Anchorage. 

Map: Anchorage to Falls River

It is also the section with the greatest concentration of mature native bush which makes for very pleasant walking. You are shaded for most of the time except on the tops of the ridges where the forest is much thinner. 

Back into bush at Torrent Bay Settlement

On the Coastal Track climbing out of Torrent Bay

...the Coastal Track is steep from Torrent Bay...

Right after Torrent Bay comes the biggest climb of the day, its only to a height of about 160 meters. The track is fairly steep and I was feeling the post Covid affects of slightly diminished lung capacity. 

Luckily the pain is short lived...

Good view of Torrent Bay from the Coastal Track

View to Anchorage and Torrent Bay from the track

You walk through an area of wind fallen trees from a big storm about 10 years ago and then it is a gently climbing sidle as you start off across an undulating plateau from here to the high point above the Falls River. It takes about 45 minutes to cross the plateau.

Area of wind fallen trees above Torrent Bay

Just before the start of the plateau enroute to Halfway Pool

...sidle track for the next 40 minutes...

You cross thirteen bridges over the course of the day ranging from small foot bridges to the large suspension bridge over the Falls River. Most cover streams and creeks but some just cover the steeper gully's along the track. 

Here is an example of the latter...the one below crosses a dry gully. It makes walking much easier than having to drop into and climb out of each individual dip like you do on standard tramping tracks. 

Footbridge across one of the gullies...Coastal Track

You climb to a high point looking out over Tasman Bay before dropping down to Half Way Pool.

Mix of Manuka and Podocarp species, Coastal Track

...the Coastal Track clay surface can be slippery when wet...

Kilby Stream is about a third of the way across the plateau and the stream at Halfway Pool is the half way mark between Anchorage and Bark Bay.

Crossing the Kilby Stream bridge

The forest cover in Abel Tasman NP is of two types: original podocarp forest and regenerating forest dominated by Kanuka and Manuka. Kanuka/Manuka are re-generation trees...they are usually the first to return after land has ben modified in some way. 

There used to be a lot of farms and other enterprises along this coast. They tended to cut down all the trees for building materials, fuel or just burnt it to clear the land. If you are walking through Manuka or Kanuka forest it was probably an old farm site at one time. 

Coastal Track: looking out over the forest

It was nice walking along on a lovely sunny day...these have been rare this year as we have basically had rain every wekend for nearly three months now. 

Jon on the Coastal Track above Frenchman's Bay

Most of the forest is sparse Manuka...Coastal Track

Thicker vegetation in spots on the Coastal Track

There are a couple of places along the track where the track workers have obviously used drills and explosives to build the track. Mostly though the track consists of that clay soil this is so common in this part of the country. 

Track blasted from solid rock outcrop...Coastal Track

Frenchman's Bay comes into view several times while crossing the plateau. It was a bay frequented by 

 D' Urville and Cook as a source of fresh water and can only be accessed by boat or kayak as there is no track down to it. 

View to Frenchman's Bay from the Coastal Track

Frenchman's Bay is only accessible from the sea

You strike Halfway Pool just past Frenchman's Bay...it isn't the half way point from Bark Bay to Torrent Inlet but in fact half way between Anchorage and Bark Bay (if you are following the high tide track around Torrent Bay). 

It is a very modest stream but I imagine it floods quickly when it starts to rain.

Halfway Pool, Coastal Track

There is a deep and very, very cold pool here that looks to be nearly two meters deep. You can take water from this stream provided you filter or treat it. I did not need any as I had ample for the whole day. I did stop for a 10 minute break though as it was roughly 1.5 hours since I had started to walk.

 

The stream which feeds Halfway Pool

From Half Way Pool you are climbing up to the highest point of the Coastal Track for that day. This is atop a ridge separating Halfway Pool from the Falls River. On the way you pass through some lush Podocarp forest and along the side of an exposed ridgeline.

In one of the shadier gullies on the Coastal Track

Benched track between Halfway Pool and Falls River

There is a seat high above Frenchman's Bay where you can rest for a while and look out over the Tasman Bay to the mountains and islands of the Marlborough Sounds. There is cell phone reception from the seat so you can check the weather for the next couple of days, change hut/campsite bookings or order a watertaxi.

Looking out to Tasman Bay, Marlborough Sounds

Map: Kilby Stream to Bark Bay

I sat here for about 15 minutes and had a break, map check and a drink of water. the seat is shaded by some Manuka trees and it was warm but not too sunny sitting there. 

Bench seat high above Frenchman's Bay

There is a great view down to Frenchman's Bay from up here. It is a large tidal bay with lovely looking sandy beaches. I know the kayakers stop here on their way along the coast and there is a DOC campsite down on the coast that they use. 

Best view down to Frenchman's Bay

There is a large and imposing holiday home located here with its own beautiful sandy beach. Wouldn't that be a fine thing to own...your own lagoon and surrounded by thick native bush. Totally off grid of course so you would need solar panels and copious water tanks. 

Frenchman's Bay is heavily tidal

Eventually you reach the high point of the days walk overlooking the Falls River. From here you are descending down to the big suspension bridge over that river. 

Apex of the track between Halfway Pool and Falls River

The track drops down quite steeply to the Falls River and this is one section of the track where heading east to west is much nicer then west to east. The gradient is easier heading towards Bark Bay as it is a real slog up this ridge coming away from the Falls river. 

 Take care on the track in wet conditions as that slick clay surface can be slippery as hell...

Descending down to Falls River

One of the newer information panels along the Coastal Track

...slippery in the wet enroute to Falls River...

It took me about three hours to get to Falls River bridge and means you are about 3/4 of the way to Bark Bay. The Falls River starts way up in the hills over looking the coastline and is the largest river along this track section. There is a long track from near Torrent Bay to the waterfalls in the river far up at its headwaters. 

I arrive at the Falls River Suspension Bridge, Coastal Track

Falls River Suspension Bridge, Abel Tasman NP

Its quite a long bridge...100 meters at least and suspended high up over the river.

...the Falls River bridge is a long one...

Up until about ten years ago you had to travel well up river to cross at a dodgy ford but the bridge has done away with all of this.

Downstream from Falls River bridge

Looking up the Falls River to the parks interior

View back over the Falls River Bridge

From the Falls River you have to climb up and over one last ridge to get to Bark Bay. At this point you have about two kilometers of the days walk left to complete. 

Climbing away from the Falls River bridge

Misty conditions along the Coastal Track

Coastal Track heads through rocky area

Sandfly Bay is the estuary at the mouth of the Falls River and there is a campsite located near there but it is only accessible from the sea or the main track at low tide. 

View to Sandfly Bay from the Coastal Track

Hugging some cliffs on South Head peninsula

There is a side track down to Sandfly Bay Campsite a couple of hundred meters past the Falls River. It is only accessible at low tide and low river flow as the mouth of the Falls River enters the ocean there. 

 There are toilets and water here if you need them. 

Track junction with Sandfly Bay Campsite track

There is spot just down the access track where you can see the sandbar the campsite is located on.

Sandfly Bay, Abel Tasman NP

After the turn off to Sandfly Bay it was a slow climb up over the South Head peninsula before dropping down to Medlands Beach & Bark Bay. There is very nice forest along this section of the track including some beautiful mature Beech, Matai, Totora and Rimu Trees.

Ferns on the Coastal Track above Sandfly Bay

Manuka/Kanuka forest on South Head

There was occasional sea mist over the day...at South Head

Eventually you arrive at the side track to South Head where there is a lookout with views up and down the coast. I have been here a couple of times now so I decided to not go have a look at the view this time around. 

Track junction on South Head, Coastal Track

Dense bush just past South Head, Coastal Track

After dropping down from South Head I stopped at a centennial lookout built for the 200th anniversary of Abel Tasman visiting this coastline. It over looks Medland's Beach where the big Wilsons ferry drops passengers. 

The beach at Medland's is very nice and is a nice secluded spot if you wanted to get away from the usual crowds at Bark Bay. The water drops off quite steeply here and there are rocks you can swim around if that is your thing. 

Medland's Beach Centenary lookout, Coastal Track

Medland's Beach, Abel Tasman NP

Signs at the Medland's Beach lookout

There is another of those carved Maori figures installed here with an information panel talking about a prominant Maori family who once lived around Motueka. The patriarch of the family was an early lands rights activist who campaigned for Maori land claims in the Tasman region. 

Maori carving at Medland's Beach

Information panel at Medland's Beach lookout

Longer view to Medland's Beach, Coastal Track

From the Medland's Beach look out it is about one kilometers to Bark Bay. You sidle around a headland and then slowly drop down the track to the beach. There are views of Bark Bay and the beach most of the way around the headland and you are coming to the end of the days journey.

First sight of Bark Bay from the Coastal Track

Bark Bay, Abel Tasman NP

Detail of the sandbar at the front of Bark Bay Lagoon

You can see the river channel entrance into the lagoon through the barrier sand bar in the photo below. 

You can see the tidal stream into Bark Bay Lagoon

...river channel linking the Bark Bay Inlet with the ocean...

The tide resides a long way at Bark Bay

I made it to the Bark Bay Campsite just past 11 am so it had taken me roughly four hours to walk the 13 odd kilometers from Anchorage. I was looking forward to having some lunch and settling into the hut. 

Jon at the edge of Bark Bay Campsite

As you can see the coastline along here is not all sandy beaches...about half the coastline is chaotic rocky headlands best seen from the sea. You often see Fur Seals laying the rocks but I didn't see any on this occasion. 

The rocky shoreline leading to Bark Bay

There is a brand new Maori carved figure at Bark Bay Campsite...it must have been installed in the last 14 months because it wasn't there the last time I was at Bark Bay in September 2021. This one also celebrates a Maori Rangitika or leader who was important to the local Iwi. 

New carved Maori figure at Bark Bay Campsite

Information panel next to Maori figure, Bark Bay

The camp site at Bark Bay is possibly the nicest of the lot as it sits on a sand bar with the sea on one side and the lagoon on the other. There was no-one around when I arrived but over the course of the afternoon I saw several groups of day trampers checking over the campsite. 

Entrance to Bark Bay Campsite from the Coastal Track

Sandy tent sites at Bark Bay Campsite

Bark Bay Campsite...firepits, tables and toilets

...Bark Bay Campsite has 40 tent sites...

There is a very nice campsite shelter at Bark Bay with similar ones at Onetahuti Beach and Totaranui Campground. It would be the hub of life in the busy season with people standing around cooking, chatting and hanging out. 

Bark Bay Campsite Shelter, Abel Tasman NP

It has all the modern conveniences...sinks, benches, tap water, fire extinguishers and seating. There are a few notices up with useful information including a tide chart if you are contemplating any tidal crossings. 

Bark Bay Campsite Shelter: seating inside

Bark Bay Campsite Shelter: detail of sinks and benches

Bark Bay Campsite Shelter: more seats and information

I went down onto the beach to have a look at the bay...a Wilsons ferry was just coming into Medland's Beach to drop off some day walkers and I had a talk to a British couple who arrived from that vessel. She was 29 weeks pregnant which is commitment to your hiking to even think about getting out for a four hour walk...

Looking out to Tasman Bay from Bark Bay Beach

From the Bark Bay campsite you can follow the short track around the edge of the lagoon to the hut. Alternately if the tide is out you can just walk to the hut across the tidal mudflats so this is what I did. 

The Bark Bay tidal lagoon at low tide

Bark Bay Hut is clearly visible on the far side of the lagoon and there is a huge orange circle out the front to show you where the steps up to the hut begin. 

First view of Bark Bay Hut, Abel Tasman NP

You cross over the mud flats to get to the hut

I saw these Weka tracks out on the sandy lagoon...there are many Weka here as well as Pukeko, Seagulls, Terns, Shags, Oyster Catchers, Geese/Ducks, Kaka, Tui, Bellbirds, Morepork and Kiwi. I have seen or heard all of these species here at one time or another.

Weka foot prints in the mud at Bark Bay

Eventually you arrive at Bark Bay Hut, I got there at about 11.30 so that was 4.5 hours walking including breaks. That is about my standard time for walking this section of the Coastal Track.  

Bark Bay Hut was my favorite hut on this track, the location is great and I always enjoy my stays here. It is the oldest hut on the track but in a lot of ways has the most character. These mid 1980-90's wooden Lockwood/Fraemohs huts are just full of charm...that deep orange color of the wood inside is very appealing. 

Bark Bay Hut, Abel Tasman NP

....the front of Bark Bay Hut....

One of the things I like about Bark Bay Hut is that lagoon right outside the door. It is beautiful when full and empty and mean there are a lot of seabirds and waterfowl around the hut. At low tide you can easily walk over to the campsite and ocean but even at high tide its only a five minute walk along the track. 

View of Bark Bay Lagoon from the hut site

Bark Bay has three bunkrooms: 34 spaces on sleeping platforms, a large communal area, it is fully insulated and double glazed, tapped fresh water in the hut, flushing toilets and it even has a cold water shower for the more hardy folks out there.

 

Plenty of space on the Bark Bay Hut veranda

...outside cleaning sink at Bark Bay Hut...

My Osprey Atmos 50 at Bark Bay Hut

Bark Bay Hut is my favorite hut along this track, I feel it has more of a genuine kiwi air to it than the other two huts. I have talked to other Kiwis who have walked the track and they mostly agree with me.

Both Bark Bay and Anchorage Huts have solar powered LED lights in the living areas, they automatically come on at dusk. Awaroa is the only one still using candles though you have to bring them yourself as DOC do not supply them.

Bark Bay Hut: interior of living space

Bark Bay Hut: the kitchen area

There are two 12 space bunkrooms inside the hut with two levels in a sleeping platform configuration. This is the best way to jam the maximum number of people into a limited space. When the huts are eventually replaced I am sure they will be filled with individual bunks as that is the most common configuration now. 

Bark Bay Hut: one of the interior bunkrooms

Bark Bay Hut: one of the interior bunkrooms

Bark Bay Hut: second interior bunkroom in 2018

Bark Bay Hut and Awaroa Hut have smaller six bunk rooms on the outside of the huts. These were once the living quarters for the resident Hut Wardens and can be seen on similar huts in Nelson Lakes NP, Abel Tasman NP and Kahurangi NP. As the number of visitors increased they were reconfigured as the easiest way to add bunks to huts which were becoming to small. 

Bark Bay Hut: the exterior bunkroom

There are two main tables in the hut with seating for about 15-20 people at one time and bench seating right around the inside of the living area. If the hut was totally full this would probably feel like a very crowded space. 

Bark Bay Hut: seating area in living space

Bark Bay Hut: benches around the walls

I was over by the window in bunk room number one. Because I was there first I grabbed the best mattress in the hut. It was one of those new blue ones DOC have started to place in huts around the country. Because there were just four of us I was able to have a whole bunkroom to myself with Mahalee in the other interior bunkroom and Bruce and Ali in the bunkroom outside. 

Jon's sleeping spot at Bark Bay Hut

The hut intentions book at Bark Bay Hut

There is a separate ablutions block to the rear of the hut with sinks, flush toilets and even a cold water shower. You also have a full drying line so you could hang your cloths to dry in sunny weather (no pegs though). 

Bark Bay Hut: outside toilet and sinks

The last time I was here I sat at the picnic table outside to eat both lunch and dinner. It is a very fine spot but there are plenty of sandflies so bring some DEET to ward them off.

Picnic table in front of Bark Bay Hut

After organising myself in the hut and chopping some firewood I sat down for a belated lunch of soup, crackers and cheese. I was the only person in the hut until Bruce and Ali arrived around 1pm. Mahalee arrived around 3 pm as she walked up the Torrent river to have a look at Cleopatra's Pool.

Preparing firewood supplies at Bark Bay Hut

Time for lunch at Bark Bay Hut

When the tide starts coming in it quickly fills the Bark Bay Lagoon and separates the hut from the campsite. There is a track running around the outside of the bay so there is a high tide route around the lagoon. When the tide is fully in you can bring boats into the lagoon from the sea as it is about 1.5 meters deep in the shallow places.

Encroaching tide at Bark Bay Hut

The tidal lagoon at Bark Bay

It started raining in the afternoon which chilled things down quite a bit. It continued to rain solidly for the next 30 odd hours and only stopped about 4 am on the last day of my trip. 

Rain set in later in the afternoon at Bark Bay

We had the fire going in the huts every night. It was warm during the day but once the sun went down it got cold real quick. Every hut had firewood but it was mostly semi dry Manuka so bring some paper/firestarter's with you if you are staying in one of the huts. 

Bark Bay woodburner set and ready to go

I filled up the wood box at Bark Bay

We lit the fire at 5 pm as that was the time the sun was setting on this trip. 

The Bark Bay fire blazing later in the night

Bark Bay Hut is my favorite on this track and I really rate the walk from here to Anchorage provided you can use the low tide crossings. If I lived up here I would be in Abel Tasman National Park every weekend....it would be my weekend stroll destination. Come back soon for day three of my tramp where I walk from Bark Bay to Awaroa in a storm on my way to the track end at Totaranui.

Access: Water taxi from Kaiteriteri or Marahau, the trip takes up to one hour from Marahau. Walk in from Awaroa (4 hours) or Anchorage (3-4 hours)
Track Times:  It is 12.5km's or 3.5-4  hours from Anchorage to Bark Bay, add an hour and an extra 4 kilometers if using the high water route. Roughly 13 km's from Bark Bay to Awaroa. 
Hut Details: Bark Bay Hut: Great Walk, 34 bunks, wood burner, filtered water tank, wood shed, flush toilets; Anchorage Hut: Great Walk, 34 bunks, wood burner, filtered water tank, wood shed, flush toilets. Multiple campsites along this route at Anchorage, Torrent Bay, Sandfly Bay, Bark Bay. 
Miscellaneous: On DOC Great Walk booking system, must be booked for overnight visit. Hut warden in residence from 1st October to 30th April each year. Tidal crossing at Torrent Bay or use the longer high tide track.

YouTube: Anchorage to Bark Bay